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  #21  
Old 07-23-2017, 10:35 AM
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smalljob smalljob is offline
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Thanks I will need that. I will send you a PM.

Update on the carb bowl. Found a perfect fit rubber washer at Ace Hardware for $.18 so I will try and put it back as it was. If it leaks I will seal it up.

Has anyone ever tried to replace the governor shaft without pulling the crank and cam?

If I have to pull the crank I am going to most likely have to cut off the front pulley. Mine is like Zippy talked about in his thread. Someone has already messed up the set screws.
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  #22  
Old 07-23-2017, 09:02 PM
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As I suspected. Shaft came out through the access hole. Hopefully the piece fell into the base without causing any damage. There was very little oil when I drained it. I am amazed that the cylinder walls don't show any damage or scaring.
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  #23  
Old 07-23-2017, 11:20 PM
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Yeah, sometimes the only way to get the pulley off is to cut it into pieces. It is what it is.
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Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439
(O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs
Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk
They can't all be turn key!
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  #24  
Old 07-24-2017, 05:25 AM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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I'm 30 minutes west of providence, so not far at all! Keep up the good work on this one!
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Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts.
family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub.
Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors!
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  #25  
Old 07-24-2017, 01:24 PM
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Rainy day did some painting on 100 and then worked on the engine. Pulled the oil pan and found the broken piece from the governor arm, but then I saw another small piece. That made my mind up for me, I need to take this all apart to look for more damage. Like Zippy I tried drilling the set screws out of the pulley after about 30 minutes and not much to show for it I decided to cut it off. No plans for any attachments.

The larger pulley that runs to the S/G was not too bad. The set screws had been rounded but I was able to drive in an old metric Allen that was tight enough and with some heat they both came out. Pulley came off with just a little bit of effort.

Pulled the piston and found that the skirt was broken and you can see the notch that the governor arm piece made in the piston. Amazingly the cylinder has no damage. Always better to be lucky than good !!!!

I was also able to get the exhaust completely apart. Maybe all the heating I had done to get the broken head bolt out helped since they are right next to each other.

I mentioned earlier that there was very little oil in the engine. Everything inside is coated with a very sticky black tarry consistency film. Again no cylinder wall damage!!!

Tomorrow I will try and get it cleaned up real well and measure for tolerance.

Very thankful that the damage is manageable. Everything damaged can be replaced.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg governor shaft piece.jpg (26.0 KB, 294 views)
File Type: jpg broken piston.jpg (25.2 KB, 292 views)
File Type: jpg cylinder.jpg (16.6 KB, 294 views)
File Type: jpg pulley cut.jpg (37.0 KB, 296 views)
File Type: jpg exhaust off.jpg (40.1 KB, 293 views)
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  #26  
Old 08-01-2017, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smalljob View Post
Rainy day did some painting on 100 and then worked on the engine. Pulled the oil pan and found the broken piece from the governor arm, but then I saw another small piece. That made my mind up for me, I need to take this all apart to look for more damage. Like Zippy I tried drilling the set screws out of the pulley after about 30 minutes and not much to show for it I decided to cut it off. No plans for any attachments.

The larger pulley that runs to the S/G was not too bad. The set screws had been rounded but I was able to drive in an old metric Allen that was tight enough and with some heat they both came out. Pulley came off with just a little bit of effort.

Pulled the piston and found that the skirt was broken and you can see the notch that the governor arm piece made in the piston. Amazingly the cylinder has no damage. Always better to be lucky than good !!!!

I was also able to get the exhaust completely apart. Maybe all the heating I had done to get the broken head bolt out helped since they are right next to each other.

I mentioned earlier that there was very little oil in the engine. Everything inside is coated with a very sticky black tarry consistency film. Again no cylinder wall damage!!!

Tomorrow I will try and get it cleaned up real well and measure for tolerance.

Very thankful that the damage is manageable. Everything damaged can be replaced.
Very nice work! Working on all this old stuff takes a lot of patience and sometimes some old tricks that we have to pull out of you know where... but isn't it amazing how good you feel after a great day wrenching on your old cub?
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  #27  
Old 08-01-2017, 09:36 PM
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drglinski drglinski is offline
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Doctor Doctor, give me the news....I got a bad case of buying cadets.

Nice. An O is on my list.
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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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  #28  
Old 08-02-2017, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambrola View Post
When you get to that exhaust mess, I have a NOS elbow and muffler if you need one. Congrads on the O.
I sent you a couple of private messages. Not sure if you got them. I am interested in the muffler etc.

Thanks

Bill
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2017, 03:30 PM
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My very rudimentary measurements show the cylinder OK and the crank at the high end of OK but since the cylinder has a lot of scratches ( probably because of the filthy low oil) I decided to take it in to be professional checked. Today I decided to mess around with the wiring so that when I get it back together I can at least test things out. Using the existing harness and pieces from my old butchered 100 harness I connected up things according to the wiring diagram. Wire color coding is not correct but point to point I should be OK. When I actually get into the restore I will order a new harness from Mike. The push button was still good, but the key switch is open so I just popped in a single pole switch for now. What was interesting is that the gray wire that goes from the push button switch to the VR was on the wrong side ???? There is no way that the battery would have been recharging the way it was. The switch was not mounted and the nuts on the posts were that tight, so I suspect someone might have messed with it. It should be on the same side as the battery cable, but it was on the side of the S/G armature.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Wiring.jpg (13.8 KB, 230 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4322.jpg (18.6 KB, 229 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4319.jpg (21.7 KB, 230 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4320.jpg (32.3 KB, 230 views)
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  #30  
Old 08-23-2017, 01:57 PM
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Nothing much to report. Been slow going over the last few weeks with other activities. I did get a real nice NOS muffler and elbow from Ambrola ( Ronnie) !!

Engine still at the shop waiting on parts.

I was soaking and heating the steering wheel for the last two weeks. Tried PB blaster, bees wax, to no avail so I finally cut it off today. Someone had tried putting a 5/8 - 16 nut on so the threads were already a bit messed up and of course I nicked them with my grinder, but they cleaned up nicely with 5/8-18 die. Did a test fit with a spare wheel and nut and works fine.

The throttle cable was missing and the choke cable would not move. I took it off and coiled it up in a pan with some PB blaster and let it sit for the last week plus .Today I was able to move it so I think I have saved that piece. I do have the lever for the throttle and it cleaned up good, so I just need to come up with a cable.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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