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#1
11-13-2017, 08:02 AM
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1772 radiator issues?
I was using my 1772 last week and started smelling anti-freeze. I tore into it last night only to find the fan was hitting the radiator.
When tearing it apart, every bolt was tight , except the top center radiator support bracket that runs to the top of the grill support. The nut on the radiator side was loose. There are still 4 side bolts holding the radiator and those were all tight. Cant believe the loose top bracket would let it move back? The fan bearings are tight, with no noticeable play. Now hoping the radiator shop can repair it... Cub shows the radiator is NLA.  Anyone have any ideas on what could have moved? 
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#2
11-13-2017, 09:24 AM
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If the radiator didn't move than the engine might have moved?? Worth checking all the engine mounts before your repaired or replacement radiator gets wrecked also. Also check the fan mount too.
__________________
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=42646  70, #1 cart. Brinly Cultivator. Some wheel weights . {125, 126, 2072-Sold~regrettably, 2284 60 inch Haban 325 deck., 451 snowblower, 2182-60 inch Haban 374 deck- "Money Pit", 401 Haban 54 inch dozer blade- rebuilt, 1440-down the road, Another 2182 for parts. Another 2284 for parts. 450 blower. 1812-sold, 2072 w/ Haban 374, and a 2182#3 w/ Haban 325}-------> All SOLD
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#4
11-13-2017, 09:55 AM
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Fan bearings appear to be good..no wobble or end play.
This morning, before going to work, I did try to move the motor by pushing on it by hand. It seemed to be tight... but I think taking a closer look at motor mounts might be my next thing to do... Here are pics of damage.. from approx 5 oclock to 10 is heaviest damage area.
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#5
11-13-2017, 11:45 AM
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A good shop should be able to re-core that or fix it depending on how bad it is.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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#6
11-13-2017, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
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#7
11-13-2017, 10:24 PM
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Did a very quick check tonight and the motor mounts look to be in good condition. I have no idea what to look for next? Might have to wait til I start re-assembling it and go from there.
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#8
11-15-2017, 12:05 AM
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When I first did a drive shaft conversion for my 1572 with one from a 2000 series drive shaft, everything worked fine until while snow blowing with it and the drive shaft "uncoupled" from the engine and the little blue rubber drive barrels destroyed.
In order for that to happen the distance between the engine and the rear axle had to increase. Since the rear axle is bolted in place, most of the movement had to come from loading or forces to cause the engine to move forward on the isolation mounts or from frame twist. There is not a lot of space between the fan and the radiator even on the best of days. So maybe you ran into a worse case scenario where you may have had minimal clearance to start with, then adding that loose top radiator support bracket along with a little more wear on the isolation mounts resulted in contact between the fan and radiator. How was the tractor being used when the problem showed up? Could problems in the driveline push the engine forward? How did it look before you took it apart? Was the fan touching the radiator?
__________________
1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374
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#9
11-15-2017, 08:10 AM
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I was just mulching leaves at the time with the mower deck. Wasnt pulling a cart or any other attachment. Didnt hit or bump into anything. Was about half way thru the yard when I noticed the anti freeze smell.
Last night we were talking of the possibility of the engine moving forward in the mounts. The engine seems tight in the mounts when trying to move it by hand. It didnt have any noticeable lateral play, but I didnt have to look real close. Do the mounts or frame have any type of adjustment? .. and / or can they wear that could allow it to move forward? I'm think of loosening those bolts and see if I can pry the motor back at all? Thankfully, the shop was able to repair the radiator. If I get home early enough, I hope to start re-assembly tonight. Do you have any idea how much clearance would normally be between fan and radiator? ...and thanks for all the suggestions!!!
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#10
11-15-2017, 10:27 AM
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Use a pry bar to see if you can move the engine around. Shaking it by hand isn't sufficient. That motor will move around more on it's own than you could ever shake it by hand.
I think the loose upper mount was likely the issue, but i can't look at your tractor, you can. When you do get it back together, start it up for a short time with the fan belt off of it. Try different RPM's and maybe even kick the deck on and watch the engine. See how it moves around. With the belt off, at least you won't damage the radiator again if you overlooked something.
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