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  #21  
Old 12-10-2017, 04:45 PM
Big-D Big-D is offline
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Thanks for the reply! My charge pump is notched to allow clearance/access to the line fitting. Plus there are clear as day marks as to how it's sits on the surface. At first I installed a Napa 1410 filter along with cheap Universal hydraulic. After I knew all the leaks were fixed and everything was running fine then I planned on swapping it out for the Cub Cadet 923-3014 Plus HyTran Ultraction fluid. Before I removed everything again from the tractor I did install the Cub Cadet filter just to see if it would change anything. Nothing changed. When it was in the tractor I did try cracking the lines and loosening the filter a bit while it was running in hopes of possibly purging the system of any air but still changed nothing.15129422311051901247735.jpg
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2017, 07:25 PM
Big-D Big-D is offline
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Well, I don't know what I did different! Put the pump back together, mounted it to the rearend, stuffed it back into the tractor and it works and sounds beautiful! ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:13 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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FWIW:
When you loosened the filter, you induced additional air into the system, as it is a suction filter.
Always best to put fluid in the hydro unit when assembly is completed to insure pump/motor is primed, and nothing starts dry.
Glad all is well!!
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:58 PM
Big-D Big-D is offline
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The only thing I did different this time around was instead of dumping fluid into the pump thru the inlet on the bottom before mounting to the rearend, I pulled the relief valves and poured fluid down the holes. Not sure if this helped but like I said it was the only thing I did different. I don't know!
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  #25  
Old 12-11-2017, 12:17 AM
Big-D Big-D is offline
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[QUOTE=Sam Mac;440471]Wheels are supposed to spin in opposite directions when you spin 1 wheel, that how a diff works.

I understand this. But when I installed everything into the tractor the first time around, with the wheels mounted on the hub and tires touching concrete, the tractor wouldn't roll forward or backward when I tried to push it. The rearend was locked. The second time around after reinstalling everything, it rolled fine when pushed. Maybe this contributed to it not working the first time. I wonder what was hanging it up? The pump shafts spun freely by hand before mounting.
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2017, 08:02 AM
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[QUOTE=Big-D;440534]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Wheels are supposed to spin in opposite directions when you spin 1 wheel, that how a diff works.

I understand this. But when I installed everything into the tractor the first time around, with the wheels mounted on the hub and tires touching concrete, the tractor wouldn't roll forward or backward when I tried to push it. The rearend was locked. The second time around after reinstalling everything, it rolled fine when pushed. Maybe this contributed to it not working the first time. I wonder what was hanging it up? The pump shafts spun freely by hand before mounting.
The tractor should of rolled, especially since there was basically no fluid to obstruct easy movement.
it is possible something was binding during reassy, hard to tell not being there,
good thing is it works well now.
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  #27  
Old 12-11-2017, 07:46 PM
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I agree! Thanks for all the moral support! I would be lost without this forum!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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