1450 makeover

[Mike1450]

Well six weeks ago I decided that it was time to makeover the old 1450. The snow had stopped so she would not have to plow and I had a few weeks before grass mowing time. She has always been taken care of since I got her 25 years ago. I would not consider her to be in bad shape but with time everything get's old and tired.

Two thing that need attention and were the main goals for the make over. The first was the engine (K321 original unit) started burning oil last year, about a pint every two hours. Even with this she still ran good and never failed to go to work. The second thing was the trans fluid leak between the hydro and trans-axle.

Everything else from this point was cleaning up and replacing worn parts as I came across them.

The first part of the plan take lots of pictures, just so I remember how everything went together. This was also handy because I have a old laptop I use in the garage when working on thing just so I can go on line to look up parts, manuals etc... In this case I load all the pictures I took as I went along so I can use them as reference. I also loaded the Kohler manual for the K321. This worked out great! I could pop between pictures or scan through the Kohler manual with no problem, even zoom in and out for more detailed views. As far as having the manuals for the 1450 I had many of them since my late father wrote them which in itself made this makeover a little special for me.

As many of you know these little tractors are not a very complex machine to work on. Taking it apart is not difficult. I first focused on taking the front end apart and pulling the engine. You can see in the picture there was also a head leak which did not surprise me considering she been running since 12/1976. Once the engine was out I focused on taking it apart. I knew I was going to take the block in to be machined. BTW when taking the machine apart I did it in section and all screws and small parts where put into plastic sandwich bags and labeled. Once I got the piston and rod out I found the side of the piston (valve side) worn, most likely answered the burning oil question. The walls of the cylinder measured on the high end of the spec, not out but up there. Valve seats looked good and the guides showed little wear, not bad considering how many times these parts moved over its lifetime.

Some pictures before makeover, engine etc..

[Mike1450]

I choose a local machine shop that actual use to be a Kohler repair center. They had very good knowledge and gave me many pointers on re assembling the engine. I had the cylinder bored 10 over and the crank turned turned 10 under. Head was trimmed to perfect flatness, block surface polished up and check for flatness as well. Valves cleaned and lapped. Whole block cleaned. The guys at the shop even ordered me the piston, rings and rod all Kohler parts at their cost which was a lot cheaper then what I was finding. This was handy simply because they were able to measure the piston and bore the cylinder accordingly.

While the block was away it gave me time to go back through all the part baggies and start cleaning each part in my part washer. Once parts were cleaned and dried I put them in new baggies, relabeled them and sealed them up so no dust of dirt would get to them.

[Mike1450]

Focus now turned back to the frame which was dirty and oily. I popped a hydrolic hose to the lift this winter which sprayed oil all over the place. Lucky my neighbor who help me lift the engine out has a trucking shop a half mile down the road. He offered me his steam cleaner at the shop they use to clean the trucks. I said lets go so he got his trailer. I was impressed how the steam cleaner really cleaned up the grease and oil off of the frame. I was very careful when cleaning around the hydro seals etc... because of the heat and pressure.

[Mike1450]

Next was removing the rear-end and hydro as a unit. Disconnecting the linkages and brake rods. Removed six bolts and the rear-end slide right out. I was not planning to tear down the rear end. I changed oil in the rear end last year and do it on a regular schedule which keeps it very clean. I also have change the axle seals a few years back. The second goal I had was to get to the gasket between the hydro and axle which was leaking. I tilled the rear end up so all the fluid would be in the rear end. This is also a good time to see if your vent is not clogged, if its not clogged there will be some leakage of fluid. I good piece of duck tape over the hole works. Four bolts and off came the hydro. As you can see from the pictures it was shot. A new gasket was installed and hydro added back.

I also notice the Trunion plate was worn so that had to be welded up and filed back to spec's. This turn out to be the most challenging part since the cam bracket and trunion shaft were stuck together. It took 3 days soaking it in PB to get it apart. Once off the repair was made, new springs and ends were added.

Also I replace the shaft seals on the hydro unit they were not leaking but I had it this far apart. A good cleaning and fresh painting and she was ready.

[ACecil]

Awesome write up and pics, Mike!

[Turbo Archie]

This is going to help me with mine.

Thanks!!!!

[Mike1450]

Next moved on to the frame and dash tower. I rebuilt the steering not to long ago and added the trust bearing to make it smoother. Nice upgrade! I'm not planning for the tractor to be a show tractor and can't really say that I'm a professional painter. My decals are in good shape and are solid. I taped around them. If the decal was lose or not in good shape I did remove them, most were small ones which I will replace. Dash panel was covered and masked off. The whole unit was sanded down smooth. Note that rust spot were sanded down to bare metal and a rust inhibitor applied. Two coats of primer was applied and then wet sanded when dried any nicks of dents were filled in. One more coat was added and little spots sanded. Paint was all rattle cans and came from CC. The first coat of white was applied and wet sanded. The second coat was then applied. After the tower dried the tower was masked off. One coat of yellow was applied and also wet sanded between the second coat. Once dried a day or two the rear end was reinstalled.

[Mike1450]

Once the rear-end was in I move to the front axle. Removed and cleaned out the the 30 plus years of old grease. Sanded where I could and used a small sand blasting unit to get into the small area. Two coats of primer and two coats of yellow. Replaced all the ball joints.

All four ISO mounts were changed with the CC parts. I did not do the cross brace to the engine mounts after long and hard thought and discussions. (personal choice)

Three weeks had past since I broke down the Engine and dropped it of at the machine shop. They called and off to get it I went. Before I started assembling the Engine I did do a very good cleaning of the work area and work bench. I made sure it was very clean and no dust was around from the sanding etc.. Crazy huh? I even washed and wiped all my tool in the parts cleaner. One thing I do have which was very handy for cleaning small parts, carb, nuts and bolts was a small ultra sonic cleaner. That surely cleaned things up very nice especially when it heat up the cleaning fluids.

Time to re-assemble the engine! Following the Kohler manual was a snap and easy on the old lap top. Using what was in the manual and then referring back to the pictures during disassemble. I do have some experience working on engine so that help a little. One thing that always help when doing something is the right tools which I have most. Check, Check and re check! This is the best advice one can have when rebuilding the engine. Clearances are important and the manual gives you the numbers to work with. One thing that I did go out and get was a travel gauge for measuring the ACR clearance on the exhaust valve. The are not very expensive about $20 but saved a lot of guessing. At first the lift was only 0.017in. The range was to be 0.030-0.042in as I recall. I set it at 0.038in just because over time it will wear down a little.

Parts replaced or reworked in the engine were:

1)piston (+10), rings and rod (-10)
2)Valve springs
3)Governor Gear
4)Point push pin
5)Points and condenser
6)Front and rear seals
7)All gaskets
8)Valve breather element
9)Crank turned (-10), Cylinder bore (+10), Head shaved flat.
10)Valves cleaned and re ground. Valve guides good no need to replace.
11) New lifters

Block was primed with high temp primer and them two coats of hi temp flat black. Crank PTO and Fly wheel shaft taped off. Carb and exhaust holes covered. Head was installed with the old gasket for painting. Head was not painted just used to stop any paint from getting in.

Now I had pictures of the engine going together and after painting but somehow they got lost.

[Mike1450]

I guess I should back up a little. Before I could start the thing I had to finish the fender. Not much to say here but sand, sand, sand. The worst spot was the battery compartment the bottom needed a lot of grinding and work. Still solid but pitted badly. After a good grinding and then applying rust inhibitor it was primer and filled in with bondo filler then sanded to make it smooth another coat of primer to the whole fender, then wet sanded and a finally three coats of yellow, wet sanded between each coat.

One day at the local tool shop I ran across some rubber tiles, self sticking very strong glue. I decided this maybe a good place to cut a tile up and use at the bottom of the battery tray. The rubber mat has a pattern that will allow some air under the battery to keep it dry and hopefully and acid from the battery won't get to the metal to eat at it again. I will let you know in 20 years ! Lol

Also before adding the fender back on I changed the battery cables to 4 gauges wire both positive and negative leads.

It was the night before Easter and it was late so I got everything ready to start it but did not want to wake the neighborhood up, so a turned in just wanting to turn that key!!!

[Mike1450]

Easter morning 10am I went out to the garage before all the guest came over in the afternoon. Checked the oil level connections and fuel.

Set the parking brake and sat down on the fender. Turned the key pulled the choke and off she went !!!

A little cloud of smoke from the oil on the cylinder walls. She sounded strong! I let it run at 2100 rpm for about 5 mins and then started to adjust the carb. I then got the timing light out and fine tune the timing. It sure helps when you can find the mark. Before putting the fly wheel on I sanded and found the timing mark and painted it with a bright white paint. Adjusted the point to show the “s” mark in the dead center of the window and steady. Went back and adjusted carb a little more, re checked the timing again. Turn it off for the afternoon.

As the guests left I went back and removed some of the tin around the engine and re torqued the head. Closed it all back up and turned the key again. Fired right up! WOW what a good feeling.

The next day I jacked the back wheel up of the ground and start her up to adjust the linkages so there was no creeping.

For the next week I fine turned her and worked on the hood, front grill and side panels. Again back to sanding, priming, wet sanding and finally painting. While the paint was drying I was out riding ! Put about 5 hours on it, then changed the initial oil with fresh oil. I looked in the old oil for any metal flakes and she was clean !

The last thing to do was the foot rest they were pretty rusty. I was soaking them in rust remover for several weeks which did clean them up pretty good but they were pitted. I gave them a good sanding and primed them and coated them with flat black. I just did not like how they came out, just to much pitting. So I got some pick up truck bed liner paint and coated them on the top side. This stuff is pretty thick and tough, non skid also. Looked much better for know we will see if it holds up!

Extra notes:

a lot of the parts that I replaced I collected over the past few years knowing that I will get to this point. Most of the part I found deals on, or on sale along the way.

Well she is complete know except for a few decals which I'm waiting for to come in.

This website help in many ways to move through the project, thanks to all of your support!

Well I did almost have a heart attack when I finished ! My wife after 25 years liked how the 1450 looked and actual wanted to drive it around, I got it back after 45 minutes. Lol

Of coarse she did not want me to attach the 44A mower until it was cleaned up Sooooooooo I got that apart now.