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  #11  
Old 04-28-2014, 08:14 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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That does look bad. I sent you a PM

Jeff
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  #12  
Old 05-18-2014, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kostendorf View Post
Jeff, I took the gear box apart today and I definitely need a new shaft. The short one is in good shape with no play but the long one is toasted and will need replacing. I am going to take the whole tiller apart and repaint it. So I'm not going to be using it this season, but I would like to be your first customer on a new long shaft for the bottom pully if your going to make some.

Attachment 50788



Version 2 with both snap rings grooves

It's just like the original only a "little" different ( no burnishing by a worn bearing )
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2014, 01:07 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Hey Jeff, I'm not 100% sure at this moment.... but I think there is a snap ring groove at the top of the long keyway to hold the bottom bearing on. I have a box apart at the shop I can check.....

Not trying to point out problems, just hate for you to ship it if there is supposed to be one.
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  #14  
Old 05-19-2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Hey Jeff, I'm not 100% sure at this moment.... but I think there is a snap ring groove at the top of the long keyway to hold the bottom bearing on. I have a box apart at the shop I can check.....

Not trying to point out problems, just hate for you to ship it if there is supposed to be one.


I made another to send to him and corrected my print.
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  #15  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:14 PM
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I'm finally getting ready to install the tiller and ran into another problem.I want to install a #1 tiller on my 1650 but my mule drive is for a 44c deck with the angled pulley. Has anyone used an idler pulley in the center of the tractor to true up the belt path or do I have to find a different mule drive?
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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  #16  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:18 PM
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I'm a NF guy but it's my understanding straight pulleys are required.

If someone posts good pictures of the correct mule drive, or of the straight bracket that's needed, I'll look at Rough and Tumble next week at the Treshersman Reunion.
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  #17  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:26 PM
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straight is the way to go.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/pdf/CPE-2J%20Tillers.pdf
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:54 PM
rdehli rdehli is offline
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Hipper

Your going to need the straight pulleys
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  #19  
Old 08-16-2014, 11:40 AM
Jerry H Jerry H is offline
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Default Tiller Straight Mule drive
On the straight mule drive pulley set up when I use my 1a tiller, here is my design. I like the two adjustable bolts (and no spring).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P5010021 (Small).jpg (20.0 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg P5010022 (Small).jpg (20.4 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg P5010020_Small.jpg (19.2 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg P5010024 (Small).jpg (22.4 KB, 113 views)
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  #20  
Old 08-16-2014, 12:43 PM
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I bought this for 35.00 dollars and straightened the brackets. If I have troubles with the belt I'll take the spring off and use two adjusters. I like that idea.
P1030788.jpg

P1030789.jpg
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1977 1650 with cast iron lower grill housing, cast iron oil pan, 54" push-snow blade, rear blade, disc-harrow, 44c and 48" decks, Two cultivators, #1 tiller with both extensions, loaded tires, 75' weights and chains, #2 cart.
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