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View Poll Results: What color should the wheels be?
White Wheels 36 81.82%
Red Wheels 8 18.18%
Voters: 44. You may not vote on this poll

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  #21  
Old 12-24-2017, 04:02 PM
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cadetmike cadetmike is offline
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I presume this is the style head you are talking about?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kohler-K301...IAAOSwridaP9i4
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  #22  
Old 12-24-2017, 05:34 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Originally Posted by cadetmike View Post
wow... my head hurts, lol not really. I will tell you that NONE of that went over my head, just so you don't feel like it was a waste of time.

I think I will go with most of your recommendations on the engine build and clutch. I don't plan on upgrading the cam although it is tempting, I just don't think I will have the money for it. Fortunately I know someone who can do all the machine work whom I trust, so that is a big plus.

The reason I am going to such lengths on the front end is because my rims are shot and so are the kingpins and kingpin bores. I prefer to overbuild than have to readdress failure in the future. Tapered roller bearings far exceed the ball bearings available for stock application. Besides that, by the time I buy a WF axel, and rims to fit, I figure I will have about the same into it as going with the 4 bolt hubs. (they are only $38 per side for hubs, bearings, and a weld on spindle)
I think many will say it’s not needed but I like the ones I’ve seen with the
big hubs and spindles. If yours are shot then by all means you should.
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  #23  
Old 12-24-2017, 06:48 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Yes, that is the style of head I'm talking about.


If the kingpin bores are shot, that's 90% of the work right there. You'll have more fixing them than anything. If the spindle carriers are also shot, you will still need those to be able to weld the spindles for the hub style wheels on. You're cheapest bet is to just buy a used front axle assembly for a narrow frame that is in good shape. You don't need a beefier front end for what your plans for the tractor are.
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  #24  
Old 12-24-2017, 07:31 PM
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If you want to make a road trip to Cortland I have an axle assembly out of a 582 with spindles, drag link and tires and rims. Tires are shot but everything else is in decent shape.I'm sure we can work out some kind of deal. Quite sure it has 1" axle spindles.
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2017, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Yes, that is the style of head I'm talking about.


If the kingpin bores are shot, that's 90% of the work right there. You'll have more fixing them than anything. If the spindle carriers are also shot, you will still need those to be able to weld the spindles for the hub style wheels on. You're cheapest bet is to just buy a used front axle assembly for a narrow frame that is in good shape. You don't need a beefier front end for what your plans for the tractor are.
Narrow frame front axle's just have a bent 3/4 bar serving as the kingpin and spindle (at least that's how this one is). I don't care for that style, it is weak and ugly so I am going to build WF style carriers to weld the hub style spindles on. I am fully aware it is overkill, but I like how they look. I am really not sure if I want to purchase used parts that will eventually fail the same way mine has.
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  #26  
Old 12-24-2017, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cadetmike View Post
Narrow frame front axle's just have a bent 3/4 bar serving as the kingpin and spindle (at least that's how this one is). I don't care for that style, it is weak and ugly so I am going to build WF style carriers to weld the hub style spindles on. I am fully aware it is overkill, but I like how they look. I am really not sure if I want to purchase used parts that will eventually fail the same way mine has.

I'm aware of how NF front axles are built. I'm also aware of how "weak" they are.... We used to sow all of our hay ground with a 71. (We sowed in 3rd gear as fast as you could run over tilled farm ground, or planted wheat. Not a smooth road, or in a low gear.) When it was about 30 years old, we broke the first spindle. Mind you that was 30 years of mowing, sowing seed, dragging wood out of the woods to heat the hog barns, and we had wore out 2 engines and it was on it's third. I'm telling you, they are only weak when you do something to them far beyond what they were meant to do, like install a loader, or have an accident. The original "weak" spindle will last your lifetime and probably your childs. If you are just doing this to do it, that's up to you..... I just want you to know that is the only reason to do it. Not because they are "weak" and need upgraded.
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  #27  
Old 12-25-2017, 07:48 AM
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fair enough, I am still not sure what I am going to do, but I appreciate knowing that if I decide to leave it in stock configuration I will not have issues.

I did have a question about the port/polish, would you recommend doing that before or after the machine work?

HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!
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  #28  
Old 12-25-2017, 10:32 AM
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I'd do it before the machine work. That way if you accidentally hit a valve seat, it can be fixed. Plus, the machine shop will hot tank the block before boring, and clean it after. It will be clean when you get it back.

Merry Christmas!
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  #29  
Old 12-25-2017, 11:12 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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... I am going to build WF style carriers to weld the hub style spindles on...
Spindle upgrade is a fun little project and, In my not so humble opinion, looks cool. Looking forward to seeing it!
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2017, 12:46 PM
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I'd do it before the machine work. That way if you accidentally hit a valve seat, it can be fixed. Plus, the machine shop will hot tank the block before boring, and clean it after. It will be clean when you get it back.

Merry Christmas!
Kind of what I thought.
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