Driveshaft material

[Oak]

I had to have Jeff make mine because on a 982 the shaft is 3/4" but the ends are 5/8 like all the GT's. We talked about the different material available and he asked if I would be interested in the 1144. It sounded good to me so that is what he made.

I have a 5/8" 4140 in my 882 that I made on a pos $50 drill press that works fine.

I think the main thing John is to replace all the components in the drive line. I did not replace the front or rear coupler but I did change both ball bushings, all rag joints and as seen in the pics I used nylon lock nuts with red Loctite. I can't find the "crush nuts" or whatever you guys call them locally.

Here is the shaft that Jeff made for me. I had to have it extended because I'm running a Onan P220 engine and the original shaft was too short because of the different flywheel dimensions.
DSCN3228.jpgDSCN3229.jpgDSCN3234.jpg
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I will say this. With the engine running 3600 RPM there is absolutely no vibration anywhere on the tractor.

If you are changing the rag joints I would suggest bolting everything up and then measure for the shaft. I have found that Cub changed the thickness of the new rags at one point and if you use the original ones it may change your dimensions.

Good luck and let us know how it goes. Oh ya, we need pics too.

[dodge trucker]

Originally Posted by olds45512

How did the shaft bend just starting the tractor?

I don't know, but I remember not even getting to take it for a lap around the yard when I installed it.... I took it right back out and waited for the other one to get here.... my guess is that it was misrepresented, it wasn't made out of what was claimed....

[Terry C]

1144L is stressproof. My mistake. L means lead in it for machineability.
You can cut a full length keyway in it and it won’t pull. Enough machining talk.
I doubt it’s stronger than 4140 but I may be wrong.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by Terry C

1144L is stressproof. My mistake. L means lead in it for machineability.
You can cut a full length keyway in it and it won’t pull. Enough machining talk.
I doubt it’s stronger than 4140 but I may be wrong.

I was wondering just that. Given heat treating the CM4140 to around 1600f greatly increases the Rockwell C hardness? I actually have a furnace that will do it, but to fire it up for assuming a short time would cost a few bucks. Don't know. But, I have yet to read of anyone needing to heat temper for stock garden tractor applications.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by Oak

I think the main thing John is to replace all the components in the drive line. I did not replace the front or rear coupler but I did change both ball bushings, all rag joints and as seen in the pics I used nylon lock nuts with red Loctite. I can't find the "crush nuts" or whatever you guys call them locally.


Good luck and let us know how it goes. Oh ya, we need pics too.

Oh certainly rebuilding the drive line, front to back. I hate messing with the drivelines because even if you make your own driveshaft and keep the same couplers, you'll drop $120 easy. I've got to bore/bush the back of the hydro coupler---did this once on a 782 (but it required pump shaft mods as well). All parts and raw matl. for shaft is on order, hopefully get this week.