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  #11  
Old 11-28-2017, 11:30 AM
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OldSkull OldSkull is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Not sure what kind of rivet you use but mine wouldn't break.
Tim.

Rivets carefully install with the right pressure for the material used are almost indestructible, just think about how many "G" a airplane can be submit
without falling apart in flight! But like welding there is the good way and the wrong way to do it.
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Gilles.
1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #12  
Old 11-28-2017, 12:11 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Ok, well if you put a rivet every 2" like an airplane, it would hold even with cheap rivets, but who wants to drill all those holes!

I'd use self tapping sheet metal screws before I drilled holes and put rivets in. But, that's my opinion.....
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2017, 12:44 PM
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Billy-O Billy-O is offline
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I suggest pre-painted aluminum sheets for your skin.... such as the kind used on race car bodies. The aluminum are available in many different colors Pop rivets are easy... use a good step drill or a sharp twist bit. It'd be real nice in install the plexi-glass, polycarbonate or even tempered glass with some kind of molded H shape rubber if it could be had (I'm sure you can....just got to look around).
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2017, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Ok, well if you put a rivet every 2" like an airplane, it would hold even with cheap rivets, but who wants to drill all those holes!

I'd use self tapping sheet metal screws before I drilled holes and put rivets in. But, that's my opinion.....
Wait a bit Jon and be ready to hit the trigger....Someone may soon suggest "Velcro" and another one will reply with JB weld! LMAO
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Gilles.
1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2017, 02:19 PM
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Stephen.Mellish Stephen.Mellish is offline
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Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
Someone may soon suggest "Velcro" and another one will reply with JB weld! LMAO
You forgot duct tape......
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2017, 02:22 PM
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You forgot duct tape......
G....I was keeping that one for a later post with the tie-rap and the $6 HF tarp. Now you give the punch dam it!
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Gilles.
1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #17  
Old 11-28-2017, 05:20 PM
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A few people think it is too tall, did you get your measurement by sitting in the seat? I know that being 6'3" I tend to build things taller than normal....
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2017, 06:09 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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G....I was keeping that one for a later post with the tie-rap and the $6 HF tarp. Now you give the punch dam it!
I thought about that or canvas, like the old Heat Houser windbreakers for farm tractors use--assuming you can still buy them. Doubt the canvas matl would like getting wet.

In all seriousness, there are some pretty high tech adhesives nowadays, but they probably cost way more than a bunch of bolts/rivets/spot welds/tack welds.

To the OP, nice looking job so far. Keep us posted on your progress. I'm sure whatever you box it in with will be just fine. Now I think a big ol' LED lightbar across the top and a flashing strobe on the top would be the icing on the cake!
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2017, 10:15 PM
Randy Littrell Randy Littrell is offline
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Being a glass guy, my go to adhesive is Automotive Urethane. Its a structural adhesive and its fairly cheap. You could go with sheet metal on the solid areas and I would use 3/16 to 1/4" lexan on the windows. You could use the urethane and rivets to put the lexan on just like the sheet metal. Use a primerless urethane if you go that way. Feel free to PM me if you want more info.




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  #20  
Old 11-28-2017, 10:33 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by Randy Littrell View Post
Being a glass guy, my go to adhesive is Automotive Urethane. Its a structural adhesive and its fairly cheap. You could go with sheet metal on the solid areas and I would use 3/16 to 1/4" lexan on the windows. You could use the urethane and rivets to put the lexan on just like the sheet metal. Use a primerless urethane if you go that way.
If you adhere the windows with urethane, I don't see why they would need to be riveted. Urethane holds the big glass in auto's and even tractors (much more surface area of glass). May need to add a ledge or a lip for it to sit on at least on the bottom. You agree Randy?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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