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#1
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Snow cab
I built my snow cab frame for my 1450 cub cadet. So know I’m trying to figure out the best skin to put on to my 1” square stock. Any suggestions?. Getting 1/4” temper safety glass for front and all lexan around. Just waiting for material to get in so I can finish job. In summer all update lighting .
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#2
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I've used 1, 2, and 3, but never had 4 skin.
Shrink wrap may work also. You do want to keep it from being too top heavy.
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#3
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#4
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The Home depot near me sells sheets of clear and coated plexiglass, in different thicknesses. You can shape it with heat, torch or heat gun, you can sand it and paint it......It's light weight and pretty easy to work with. The frame you built looks great.
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64 Cub Cadet 100 Also have quite a few Non Cub Cadets in the Shed |
#5
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Cab looks really tall...... maybe it's just the pic?
I have a Cozy Cab. It looks tall, and I think it is. They could have built it a bit shorter. Your cab looks much taller than does a Cozy Cab. Weld metal on the thing and put windows in it. Quit fartin around asking other people how to finish it. 90% of the guys on here can't even weld. |
#6
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I would put the metal on the outside with pop rivets, unless you really take your time welding you will warp the metal welding it on and it will look like crap. Pop riveting it on will also make it much easier to replace a panel if it gets damaged and you won't have to clean up a bunch of welds before you paint it.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#7
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Quote:
This said , I agree with Jon, your cab is too tall and you need to lower the rear center cross section. For covering you can Weld sheet metal or use blind rivets with Cleco fasterner or if you feel "Exotic" like aviation "nerd" you can try the bonded aluminum way. I forgot to mention the hillbillies' way, plywood or street fiberglass sign.. You already did a great job framing so I have no doubt you figure it out, maybe no one notice the mod you did on your side engine panel but I do and I wonder if you can elaborate why and how you did that.
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Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap) |
#8
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Quote:
Also, if that cab moves around as much as my Cozy Cab, the pop rivets would shatter and the metal fall off after a week of use. Better off making panels and bolting them on, or welding them. The Cozy Cab has panels that remove, front and rear, but the metal is wrapped (bent to fit) the cab frame. So, he would need a pretty heavy brake to built that. Welding it all together it's bad. I've thought about welding mine together to make it more solid. Which part? Saying it's too tall, or the 90% of guys on here can't weld? There are 12,500 members on here. I've only seen about 10,or 15 that ca weld, or own a welder and use it. Out of them, I'd only choose a few to weld something for me. |
#9
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I think your wright about using bolts instead of rivets, metal screw is another simple option.
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Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap) |
#10
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Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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