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  #1  
Old 11-27-2017, 07:30 PM
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rlcyran rlcyran is offline
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Default Snow cab

I built my snow cab frame for my 1450 cub cadet. So know I’m trying to figure out the best skin to put on to my 1” square stock. Any suggestions?. Getting 1/4” temper safety glass for front and all lexan around. Just waiting for material to get in so I can finish job. In summer all update lighting .

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  #2  
Old 11-27-2017, 07:49 PM
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I've used 1, 2, and 3, but never had 4 skin.
Shrink wrap may work also.
You do want to keep it from being too top heavy.
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
I've used 1, 2, and 3, but never had 4 skin.
Shrink wrap may work also.
You do want to keep it from being too top heavy.
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:55 AM
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The Home depot near me sells sheets of clear and coated plexiglass, in different thicknesses. You can shape it with heat, torch or heat gun, you can sand it and paint it......It's light weight and pretty easy to work with. The frame you built looks great.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2017, 09:54 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Cab looks really tall...... maybe it's just the pic?

I have a Cozy Cab. It looks tall, and I think it is. They could have built it a bit shorter.
Your cab looks much taller than does a Cozy Cab.

Weld metal on the thing and put windows in it. Quit fartin around asking other people how to finish it. 90% of the guys on here can't even weld.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2017, 10:04 AM
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I would put the metal on the outside with pop rivets, unless you really take your time welding you will warp the metal welding it on and it will look like crap. Pop riveting it on will also make it much easier to replace a panel if it gets damaged and you won't have to clean up a bunch of welds before you paint it.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Weld metal on the thing and put windows in it. Quit fartin around asking other people how to finish it. 90% of the guys on here can't even weld.
A bit rude Jon and it's pure speculation!

This said , I agree with Jon, your cab is too tall and you need to lower the rear center cross section. For covering you can Weld sheet metal or use blind rivets with Cleco fasterner or if you feel "Exotic" like aviation "nerd" you can try the bonded aluminum way. I forgot to mention the hillbillies' way, plywood or street fiberglass sign..

You already did a great job framing so I have no doubt you figure it out, maybe no one notice the mod you did on your side engine panel but I do and I wonder if you can elaborate why and how you did that.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
unless you really take your time welding you will warp the metal welding it on and it will look like crap.
No it wouldn't. You don't solid weld it. Just stitch weld it on the frame. It won't warp. Not unless he doesn't know how to weld/fabricate.

Also, if that cab moves around as much as my Cozy Cab, the pop rivets would shatter and the metal fall off after a week of use. Better off making panels and bolting them on, or welding them. The Cozy Cab has panels that remove, front and rear, but the metal is wrapped (bent to fit) the cab frame. So, he would need a pretty heavy brake to built that. Welding it all together it's bad. I've thought about welding mine together to make it more solid.


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Originally Posted by OldSkull View Post
A bit rude Jon and it's pure speculation!

Which part? Saying it's too tall, or the 90% of guys on here can't weld?
There are 12,500 members on here. I've only seen about 10,or 15 that ca weld, or own a welder and use it. Out of them, I'd only choose a few to weld something for me.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Which part? Saying it's too tall, or the 90% of guys on here can't weld?
There are 12,500 members on here. I've only seen about 10,or 15 that ca weld, or own a welder and use it. Out of them, I'd only choose a few to weld something for me.
I never under estimate anyone, some may surprise you! There is exception but you already know my broken glass theory

I think your wright about using bolts instead of rivets, metal screw is another simple option.
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby
1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage
1963 100 (red)/in storage
2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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  #10  
Old 11-28-2017, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
No it wouldn't. You don't solid weld it. Just stitch weld it on the frame. It won't warp. Not unless he doesn't know how to weld/fabricate.

Also, if that cab moves around as much as my Cozy Cab, the pop rivets would shatter and the metal fall off after a week of use. Better off making panels and bolting them on, or welding them. The Cozy Cab has panels that remove, front and rear, but the metal is wrapped (bent to fit) the cab frame. So, he would need a pretty heavy brake to built that. Welding it all together it's bad. I've thought about welding mine together to make it more solid.



:
Not sure what kind of rivet you use but mine wouldn't break. I've seen people build cab's in the past and put the metal on with plug welds and the end result was all the panels being warped. I'm not saying it couldn't be welded on without warping but welding sheet metal without warping it is an art that alot of heavy handed welders don't have. I know plenty of certified welders that could weld a building together but couldn't weld a patch into sheet metal to save their lives.
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