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#1
09-02-2017, 01:56 PM
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1811 - Fuse Issue SOLVED
So I've been steadily if not speedily working on an 1811 I picked up for super cheap. Needed a new ignition module. While it was apart, I planed the heads and replaced the head gaskets, replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the carb and tank, and ran new fuel lines. I also replaced some crappy wiring behind the ignition switch with a Sten's repair harness.
Hooked up some fuel and jumped the starter while it was out of the tractor, and it ran nice and smooth. Spent a couple hrs yesterday putting everything back together. Can't start it, as the fuse blows every time I try to put in the holder. I'm just barely smart enough electrically to know that I have a short somewhere. But not smart enough to know where to start looking, or what to test. If I could get a pointer in the right direction, I'd appreciate it! 
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#2
09-02-2017, 04:58 PM
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Sounds like you pinched a wire upon reassembly or have something wired wrong. Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter? A short in this case is measured as very low or zero resistance from the fuse or fuse holder to negative or ground. Don't be the guy that goes through 50 fuses to see if he's got it fixed, just know that you've got it fixed
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
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#3
09-02-2017, 05:34 PM
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Yes, I have a meter. And know how to use it basically. I'm just not sure what or where I should test. Pretty sure I didn't pinch anything - I was very careful with the wiring, and only undid the engine. It is possible that I put a wire where it didn't belong though. Everything was basically a plug in, except the green (ground?) wire on the starter side, and the red wire to the starter. The red went to the side post towards the back of the starter, and the green went to one of the posts that mount the starter to the block.
When I pull the harness from the ignition switch, I can put a fuse in without it blowing. But I think the power goes through the switch to the fuse - so that doesn't help. I'll check the fuse holder to start with, see if I can find anything. Thank you
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#4
09-02-2017, 05:50 PM
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Does the fuse have 2 wires goring to it? If it does you can probe each one of them isolated individually and the other lead to ground. The short will be either before or after the fuse more than likely and then you can isolate it from there to find out by unplugging things until the short goes away.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
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#5
09-02-2017, 06:30 PM
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Disconnect the wires to the headlight bulbs and see if it blows, easy peasy.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#6
09-02-2017, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA 
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#7
09-02-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub
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#8
09-02-2017, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Here is a wiring diagram for the early and later model 1811's https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing
__________________
Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#9
09-02-2017, 08:02 PM
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The first fuse that blew the headlights weren't connected yet. Thought that might be the issue. So plugged em in, still blew.
Already had a new switch on order - should be here the first of next week. I was gonna change it anyway just because. Got to the point where I all I had to do was try and start it. And I'm not aware of TWO fuses? I just know about the one in the dash?
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#10
09-03-2017, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
* Main Fuse - 20A SLO BLO * Lighting Fuse - 10A
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA
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