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  #11  
Old 07-10-2017, 07:04 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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I got the front wheels on last night and the headlights. It's looking pretty sweet with the Cyclops axle. Which way are the front wheels supposed to go? Valve stem in or out? Valve stem in gives it a wider stance and looks cool but they stick out a little further than the rear wheels.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2017, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
1842......
It's essentially going to be a 782 with cast iron rear and Cyclops front axle, and my GT decks will fit it.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2017, 07:45 AM
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Now that you have installed a super steer front axle, you will have to do a little tweaking on the spindle steering linkage where the tie rods attach.

Otherwise when you hang the mule drive under it,the cross tie rod will rub on the top of the mule drive, when the mule is in the up position, and steering is turned left or right, and the axle pivots up or down.
No big thing, but it will need to be addressed.
IIRR they have to be bent up a little, but not too much, as the tie rod ends will then hit on the axle beam on full turn left or right.
I've done 2 axle swaps, a 782 & 1650 and both needed the modification.
Also you will have to adjust your deck hangers as you are raising the front of the tractor just a tick under 2"
Also if attaching a front dozer blade or snow thrower, you will have to lengthen your lift rod and modify your thrower to go low enough for a clean scrape on a driveway.
Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2017, 08:41 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Now that you have installed a super steer front axle, you will have to do a little tweaking on the spindle steering linkage where the tie rods attach.

Otherwise when you hang the mule drive under it,the cross tie rod will rub on the top of the mule drive, when the mule is in the up position, and steering is turned left or right, and the axle pivots up or down.
No big thing, but it will need to be addressed.
IIRR they have to be bent up a little, but not too much, as the tie rod ends will then hit on the axle beam on full turn left or right.
I've done 2 axle swaps, a 782 & 1650 and both needed the modification.
Also you will have to adjust your deck hangers as you are raising the front of the tractor just a tick under 2"
Also if attaching a front dozer blade or snow thrower, you will have to lengthen your lift rod and modify your thrower to go low enough for a clean scrape on a driveway.
Good luck.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll look for that issue, I'm pretty much ready to mount up the mule drive and deck to check the fit... But the frame (and rock shafts), front axle, tie rods, steering linkage, lift hangers, and mule drive/deck hanger are from a 1641. I didn't expect that clearance to be an issue, but maybe it will come into play... If I use implements for a cyclops on it, I would think everything would fit just fine since it's the same as a cyclops under there. I could be wrong (it's happened once before). I will report back as to how that will work out.

I spent last evening, and burnt up half a box of harbor freight titanium plated drill bits boring out the hole in the Ross steering arm a little bigger to fit the tie rod from the 1641 because the bolts are bigger. That was some really hard stuff to get through but I got it done. I wish I had done that while I had the steering out prior to moving it over, it probably would have been a little easier.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #15  
Old 07-10-2017, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
Thanks for the heads up. I'll look for that issue, I'm pretty much ready to mount up the mule drive and deck to check the fit... But the frame (and rock shafts), front axle, tie rods, steering linkage, lift hangers, and mule drive/deck hanger are from a 1641. I didn't expect that clearance to be an issue, but maybe it will come into play... If I use implements for a cyclops on it, I would think everything would fit just fine since it's the same as a cyclops under there. I could be wrong (it's happened once before). I will report back as to how that will work out.

I spent last evening, and burnt up half a box of harbor freight titanium plated drill bits boring out the hole in the Ross steering arm a little bigger to fit the tie rod from the 1641 because the bolts are bigger. That was some really hard stuff to get through but I got it done. I wish I had done that while I had the steering out prior to moving it over, it probably would have been a little easier.
Hind site is always 20-20.
I pitched the manual steering box and went to power.
Better for this old man's bad shoulders/rotor cuff.
It gives effortless quick steering, 1-1/2 turns ,full left to full right, I love it.

Make sure you have the angle correct on your L spindle steering actuator bracket
( where it goes on the spline) as they are not centered, they are set fwd.
of center, otherwise when you turn the steering wheel it will be more turns one way than the other.----in other words, you want the steering wheel
to be centered so for example, it is say 1 turn to the left or one turn to the right.
Not 3/4 of a turn one one way and 1-1/4 turn the other way.
----It will work that way, just feels odd driving it.
(Your number of turns will vary depending on your setup)
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  #16  
Old 07-10-2017, 11:01 AM
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I didn't take that off the axle so it's still set up as it was on the 1641. Lock to lock it looks pretty even.

I do like the power steering on my 1864, but what I have is what I have for this project, so manual steering only on this one. It steers pretty easily sitting on cement (I haven't driven it yet). The tires are pretty bald, I will be replacing them. My main mower is the 1864. It doesnt steer as hard as my Jacobsen, that thing gives me a workout.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #17  
Old 07-18-2017, 08:51 AM
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This project is still progressing, albeit slowly now. I've had a setback because of a nasty upper respiratory cold... in the middle of JULY! I thought it was some hay fever because it hit me while mowing on Saturday evening, but it's now Tuesday and I'm still a mess.

I'm working on the wiring side of this tractor now. I hooked up the hydro linkages and discovered the cam plate for the 149 transmission has the hole for the linkage on the bottom instead of up in the middle, where the hydro control linkage connects. After studying the linkage action from the 149, and the 682, if I had hooked it up that way reverse would have been forward and forward would have been reverse. So I had to swap the plate off the pump from the 682. Once I have the wiring done, I can fire it up and test drive it. Then I'll take some photos of it before I take the body panels back off to paint.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #18  
Old 07-22-2017, 09:49 PM
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Houston, we have a problem... but more on that in a minute. Good news first. I got it all wired up and everything works. I took it for a ride around the yard and it runs nice and quiet and smooth. I like the hydrostatic better on the 149 rear than the 1864 rear already. It does not "slip" at all or change speeds depending on terrain. I'm very happy with that. And now for some pictures.

IMG_4689.jpg

IMG_4690.jpg

IMG_4691.jpg

IMG_4692.jpg

IMG_4694.jpg

IMG_4695.jpg


Can you spot the problem? How about now:
20170722_120631280_iOS2.jpg

The air filter cover won't come out because it hits the firewall. Not sure what to do there... I'm going to have to study that a little more.

I have no steering issues, as Ol'George cautioned about. Plenty of clearance to get my 54" GT deck under it.

All that's left is to figure out a solution for the air filter cover, replace a hydro relief valve (it's a weeper) and then take it apart for paint. There's some frame rust that will need addressed. It's just surface, the paint peeled. Then decals (maybe), and a name.

EDIT: Oh, and I need to make or find a CH18 muffler heat shield from an 1863 or 1864. I have the grill for it, but the outlet of the muffler is bent a little and I need to bend it it back to where it needs to be to fit through a hole in the grill.

So just to recap, parts sourced from:
Cast Iron Rear - 149
spool valve - 149
spool lever and parts - 782
Lift Valve - 1641
Hydro lines - custom
Body - 682
Mule Drive - 1641
Deck Hanger - 1641
Frame and Front Axle - 1641
Driveshaft - 2185 (modded)
Wiring - 2185 color coded wires reused from two harnesses
PTO switch and relay - 682
CH18S - 2185

That's about it, I think. Since the frame and steering are from a cyclops, I would think if I look for front mount attachments such as a snowblower and plow, they would be anything for Cyclops that would fit directly. On the rear I can take a cyclops three point hitch or I can do the older style that mounts to the rear.

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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #19  
Old 07-22-2017, 10:41 PM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Remove the rear of the aircleaner cover with a large belt sander. Once you get past the part that sticks down it's not a problem. Been that way on my 782 with a ch20 for quite awhile now. The whole back of the cover will be open.
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  #20  
Old 07-22-2017, 10:48 PM
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sorner sorner is offline
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Simple solution to a simple problem. Thanks! I don't have a belt sander though, but I do have a Harbor Freight nearby.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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