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  #1  
Old 06-17-2016, 10:20 PM
Ken52 Ken52 is offline
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Default A perplexing problem

The tractor is an Cub Cadet 1862, (Kohler 18hp Magnum) with about 1800 hours on it. I've owned it for around 15 years, and for the last several years, it has had a problem. It starts and runs perfectly, until it gets hot. I can mow for about 10 - 15 minutes, then it immediately loses power and starts to miss (sounds like it's running on one cylinder). I have to shut off the PTO and idle it down. After about 20 - 30 seconds the miss disappears and it idles perfectly. So I increase RPM and start mowing again until it repeats in another 5 or so minutes of mowing.
Here is a list of what I've done to it:
1. new ignition coils (the second one is a genuine Kohler part
2. new fuel pump
3. electric fuel pump
4. cleaned fuel tank and lines completely
5. cleaned and adjusted carburetor several times
6. cleaned exhaust valves and ensured adequate clearance
7. several fuel filters
8. spark plugs (tried both Champion and Autolite)
9. different carburetor (both are Walbro)
None of the above changes made any difference whatsoever. That is, after each change, the engine would again exhibit the same identical symptoms. The airflow is good, cylinder fins are clean.
I've searched forums but I've not been able to find any ideas that have made a difference.
Anyone have experience with something like this?
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:13 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Ever replace the fuel lines and filter? How about the screen in the tank?

Have you cleaned the intake valve stem and guide? It's rare, but they can stick. Did you clean the exhaust valve guide? How tight is the exhaust valve stem to the guide?

I know you've replaced a lot of parts, but keep in mind that issues like this are usually much simpler.
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Old 06-17-2016, 11:30 PM
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zippy1 zippy1 is offline
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Are you sure the screen in the fuel tank is good? And the tank is clean?
Sounds very close to an issue I had not that long ago...
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:33 AM
Ken52 Ken52 is offline
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I appreciate your comments, Jonathan and Todd.
I've pretty much ruled out fuel supply issues. I haven't replaced the fuel lines, but I can pump a lot of fuel with electric fuel pump through the new filter. And I have flushed and cleaned the tank and lines.
I did remove the exhaust valves, cleaned them thoroughly, and even took a few thousandths off them to be sure that I had plenty of clearance when hot. I'm running on the high end of the tolerance for clearance now.
I looked at the intake valves, but they looked really clean and clearances were good.
One thing that I forgot to mention in my original post is that, the last time I used an infrared heat sensor on the engine, the LH cylinder was running about 100 degrees F hotter than the right. IIRC, the temps were around 450F and 350F. However I haven't checked temps since I found out that the carb had a plugged orifice. Now that the carburetor works the way it should, I expected that the temps might be more even. I'll check that later today just to be sure.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:19 AM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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it is difficult to get temps at both cyls the same with one carb. but that is a pretty big difference. ever check for leaking intake gasket or head gasket?
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Old 06-19-2016, 02:26 PM
Packard V8 Packard V8 is offline
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You've done everything I'd have suggested, but the symptoms are still those of a fuel supply issue.

My 2135 had exactly the same symptoms and required removing the tank, cleaning and drying, new fuel line from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the carb.

Assume you've verified the gas tank cap vent is clear?

jack vines
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:14 PM
Ken52 Ken52 is offline
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Yes, I tried running it with the cap loose. Also I've had the tank off and cleaned it as thoroughly as possible, including rinsing it out several times with gasoline.

BTW, I mixed up my numbers. the hourmeter actually reads about 1400, not 1800. Still a lot of hours, but less anyway.

Regarding the temperature measurements, I took it out today, ran it until it started missing, and then carefully measured the temps of the spark plugs. This time, with the carburetor working as it's supposed to, and adjusted, both spark plugs were in the 290 - 300F range. I don't know where they're supposed to be, but the temperatures that I measured today are both lower than before, and close to each other.
I suspected an intake leak sometime back because of the earlier higher temps on one side, but I could not find any evidence of air leakage in the manifold or elsewhere.

However, it's still doing it's thing. Because of the way it's been running, the tractor has been relegated to doing only a small portion of the place now. I've just about reached the point where I'm going to just use it, be a little frustrated, and maybe quit worrying about it. But if you have another idea or thought, please let me know. I still don't like the thought of giving up.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:41 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Sure its not a valve sticking? Drain the fuel and put in enough 2cylce fuel to run about 30 minutes, that's about twice as long as you said it would run before acting up. That or add some Marvel Mystery oil to the gas--a common solution for older single cylinder Kohlers and farm tractors. If the problem goes away you know its time to work on some valve stem clearance issues.
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:59 PM
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If it has a safety oil pressure switch on block, remove the wire from it and try running it and see if the problem is still occurring.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:23 PM
Ken52 Ken52 is offline
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John,
I wondered about a sticking valve too. I did run some of the Marvel's Mystery oil through it a few years ago. I don't recall that it made any difference though. Around that same time I removed the exhaust valves and really polished them up well, as well as removing a few thousandths off the length of the valve to ensure adequate clearance when hot. Also installed new rotators.
Wouldn't a sticking valve cause some backfiring either through the muffler or carb? I don't think it's doing that. I think I'll try the Mystery oil again though. Can't hurt.

George,
I went out and looked at the oil pressure switch. I noticed that the wire going to it is rubbed bare in one place. It makes me wonder if it might be shorting out somewhere. I'll check it in the morning.
I didn't think that an oil pressure switch would cause the ignition system to hiccup, but I'll certainly follow up on it.

Thanks for the suggestions!
Ken
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