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  #11  
Old 05-22-2018, 02:36 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Originally Posted by sorner View Post
Hey John, Durham NC is only about a 10 hour drive. I've been down that way before to Duke Hospital. I will probably take it all apart and clean it up and see whats leaking and maybe fix it before I ultimately decide what to do with the engine. Is there any way to figure out if it's the original engine? I still would have no idea what hours are actually on it if it's not the original or a rebuild.
No hospital trip is pleasant, but 10 hrs one way, must have been pretty dang serious for someone. Very respectable hospital--depending on how you look at it, we fortunately/unfortunately know them well.
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2018, 08:33 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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No hospital trip is pleasant, but 10 hrs one way, must have been pretty dang serious for someone.
It was for a clinical trial at the children's hospital, they were the only place in the country offering it. Nothing too serious. It was a very nice hospital and the three day stay at the Ronald McDonald house was nice also.




Back to the subject at hand, I cannot find the serial number tag anywhere on this engine... maybe it's buried in the oil.



This is a slightly off topic question, but it seems like everything I bring home has oil soaked filth everywhere, and I use engine degreaser with an air compressor engine cleaner, and pressure spray it off. My stone driveway area where I have access to this equipment is becoming an oil slick... what do you guys do? I'm starting to think maybe I should just take my stuff to a car wash and degrease it there, but then I have to feed a meter with 10lbs of quarters and rush the job to get it done. I might have to dig up my driveway and redistribute the stones.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
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GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2018, 09:54 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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The Engine Serial Tag should be located, when standing in the front of the tractor looking back, on the Tin Shroud on the top, just to the right of the Carburetor.
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  #14  
Old 05-23-2018, 10:10 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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The Engine Serial Tag should be located, when standing in the front of the tractor looking back, on the Tin Shroud on the top, just to the right of the Carburetor.
I thought that's about where it should be, but i didn't see it. I do see the oil sentry label on the opposite side. Hopefully it'll turn up after I get the engine pulled out and cleaned...
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #15  
Old 05-23-2018, 08:34 PM
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sorner sorner is offline
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After more degreaser and pressure spraying, I found it. Based on the serial number, the engine is a 1987 (I downloaded the service manual), and the tractor is a low serial number 1988 based on the serial number, so it sounds like it is the original engine. I'll go over it and clean it up and see whats wrong and then figure out if I want to use it in my 1912.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #16  
Old 05-23-2018, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Congrats on a good deal. Why not clean it up and fix the leaks?
Agreed. These are great tractors.

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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
I removed the off topic "snarky crap" and getting back to the original topic.
For those that want to argue, inject personal opinions, and toss jabs, there is this feature called Private Message (PM). You can jab each other to your hearts content.
Well that's no fun. Come on Roland, at least leave the "snarky crap" up till midnight, then those of us who aren't on here all day, get to check it out in the evenings.
I always miss the "good stuff"...
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2018, 10:51 PM
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You guys didn't miss much. Just a discussion about parting out or fixing pros and cons...
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #18  
Old 05-24-2018, 10:14 AM
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I did a compression test on this engine before I pull it out or do anything, I get about 65lbs on each side. Seems a little low... I don't see a lot of oil in the air filter, and it doesn't smoke, maybe a little at start up.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2018, 03:19 PM
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I did a compression test on this engine before I pull it out or do anything, I get about 65lbs on each side. Seems a little low... I don't see a lot of oil in the air filter, and it doesn't smoke, maybe a little at start up.
My kt17 was reading about that when I got it. I pulled the heads and resurfaced them and cleaned the valves up and when I was all done I had 95 lbs per cylinder, it runs like a champ.
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  #20  
Old 05-24-2018, 03:59 PM
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Is that the one I saw of you (I think it was you) on YouTube wet sanding the head by hand?
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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