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  #11  
Old 04-30-2018, 06:43 AM
bugeye bugeye is offline
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As another while you are in there suggestion. Look at the CV joints and rubber boots. Easy to disassemble with the engine removed. CV joints have an o-ring between the halves. Good time to clean and repack with CV grease.
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2018, 08:17 AM
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Rescue11 Rescue11 is offline
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my bad, thought you were referring to the rear axle seal. My bad.
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2018, 08:29 AM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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No problem, should probably be doing that as well, lol. Starting to think I may have a head gasket on it's way out as well, right side spark plug is pretty fouled. Have to keep an eye on it and maybe rebuild the heads this fall.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2018, 08:47 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerkin View Post
What a difference a can of gunk and a pressure washer can make, lol. About ready to go once I get my parts, anyone any faster than partstree?
In PA, I would say Messicks. Depending on where you're at, you could just go to one of their locations and get it. I've gotten gaskets and seals from them that were actually cheaper than PartsTree, and I went to pick them up so no shipping cost either.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2018, 01:12 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Ended up finding a Dealer called Barris supply up near Sharon, PA. that had almost everything I need and said he will have the rest tomorrow so I should be good to go for the weekend. Would really like to pop the heads and see what's going on to cause that right side plug to be fouling but just don't have the time. Going to run some sea foam through it and see if that helps, if not hopefully I can find time to do the heads this fall.
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2018, 08:30 PM
Ikea6e Ikea6e is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerkin View Post
Ended up finding a Dealer called Barris supply up near Sharon, PA. that had almost everything I need and said he will have the rest tomorrow so I should be good to go for the weekend. Would really like to pop the heads and see what's going on to cause that right side plug to be fouling but just don't have the time. Going to run some sea foam through it and see if that helps, if not hopefully I can find time to do the heads this fall.

M&R Power Equipment Group in Butler is a Cub Cadet Dealer.
620 Evans City Road
Butler, PA 16001
mrpowerequipmentgroup-butler.com

Phone: (724) 482-2131

They have been pretty good to work with and prices seem fair.

You can call or e-mail them, they will check for your parts and get back to you with price and whether in stock or not.

Good luck,

Ike
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2018, 09:22 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Got her all back together and finally able to cut this weekend. Ended up having to pull the engine a second time, didn't tighten one of the pan bolts for the breather and oil ran all over the place when I started it. Couldn't let that go so took it back out again, removed the shrouds and cleaned it a second time, lol.

Glad I decided to do this job, found a couple little things that could have been problems down the road. First off one of the stator bolts had come loose a little and you could wiggle the stator. Also found a loose connection where one of the stator wires connects to the regulator. Saw some bare wire and didn't take much of a tug to pull it right out of the connector, luckily I had a few of those spade connectors with the locking tab on them laying around so it was a quick fix.

The last thing I found was pretty weird. When I put it back together and went to adjust the coil gap to the flywheel I could not get a business card between the one side of one of the coils and the magnet. Checked everything, no junk in it, other side was fine, plenty of space. Ended up running a rat tail file through the slot on the coil a bit until I enlarged the hole enough to get some play.

Other than that it wasn't a bad job. The second time I pulled the engine I had it on the bench in 24 minutes start to finish. Really not that much to it, 6 bolts that hold the engine in the frame, starter wire and the connector right above it, wire connector for the PTO, ground wire to the block and the choke/throttle cables, that's about it. Driveshaft is splined so it just falls out when you slide the engine forward.

Big thanks to everyone that offered their advice, it was very much appreciated. Also, anyone in the W. Pa/E. Ohio region that needs parts in a hurry, check out that Barris supply I mentioned in West Middlesex, they had almost everything I needed and what they didn't have in stock was here next day.
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  #18  
Old 05-13-2018, 11:53 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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One more post before I put this one to bed. Anyone reading this post later on getting ready to do this job I highly recommend doing the front seal and the breather gasket at the same time. You can do both with the engine in the frame but that breather gasket would have been much easier on the bench with the rear shroud off, tough getting the other shrouds off and out from under the one covering the flywheel.

The rear seal fixed most of my leaks but had to do the front seal and breather gasket this weekend as they were both leaking too, think I got it all now though. Here are the part numbers to order:
Rear seal: KH-24-032-19-s
Front seal: KH-25-032-06-s
Breather gasket: KH-24-041-67-s
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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