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  #11  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:44 AM
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Saluki Saluki is offline
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Oh, BTW, anyone, best (or good) sources for blades? TSC, probably. Others?
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2016, 11:33 AM
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I look up the part number then Google "Cub Cadet part #" last blades I bought came from Amazon, go figure.
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2016, 09:45 PM
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I found the parts list and deck diagram on CC's website, so now I can call parts the CC names.

And... I was able to finally get that bracket-idler (I'd call it a tension arm) nut & bolt loosened. Evidently the nut is not going to come all the way off, short of drilling it off, but the bracket can pivot on it now -- probably good enough. Whoever worked on this mower put the spacer on top of the bracket. Why, I can't fathom, but, again, the spring can now put proper tension on the idler and therefor the belt. I shot some spray "white lithium grease" under the bracket where it contacts the deck, so, it should stay freed up for a while. The belt is ordered and should be here in a few days.

The big (5/8") hex nut holding on the 5" double pulley got another shot of PB Blaster, and then Liquid Wrench Industrial Penetrating Oil with Cerflon. I'll let that work for a while and by the time the belt gets here, maybe the hex nut will free up without too big a struggle.

Perhaps 1/3 of the surface of the deck has loose paint on it. I'm thinking that I should scrape that all off immediately, so moisture doesn't get trapped beneath it. If I can't get it wire brushed well and a primer applied, B4 I have to put the mower in service (which was, eh, many moons ago -- we've been push-mowing our whole place since the Lowe's mower died), I'll hit all exposed metal with some sort of rust retarder until we can work on this deck further.* Or, if the PTO clutch IS bad, then the deck will come back off for paint while I address the PTO.

When / if we can get the #2 machine, a 1525 going properly, then I'd pull the 1517 out of service for painting. The 1517 is less rusted overall, and makes sense to recondition as well as possible. The deck on the 1525 is in pretty bad shape -- not sure I want to purchase a new deck too -- it may become an "tower" only, or a parts machine if enough parts are swappable. The engine in the 1525 really seems to run well, though...

If the 1517's PTO clutch is misbehaving, I'll likely be back on this thread with more questions. Thanks, all!
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  #14  
Old 05-06-2016, 06:42 AM
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Saluki, Cub Cadet does not know how to paint mower decks. It depends on how far you want to go on painting it.

Here is a deck I did a year or two ago.
DSCN1833.jpg DSCN1835.jpg DSCN2017.jpg

I used this stuff a few times with good luck.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-1...3877/100371820

I've also heard great things about this stuff too.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_4ctswb9syv_b

I ran into a problem on the spindle housings when I tried to remove them and ended up having to replace them. Cub Cadet uses self tapping bolts and when I tried to remove the bolts the cast aluminum broke. I found the new housings on Ebay for about $10 each.
DSCN1812.jpgDSCN1828.jpg

The older decks use a better type housing and don't have this problem but I think yours are the same that are on this deck.

Good luck on your machine a keep us posted on your progress.
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  #15  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:01 AM
dbuck dbuck is offline
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Smile Deck pulleys.

If you look a posts number 5 and 8. Those pulleys look to have rust build up and debris on the deck belt running surface. Before installing a new belt, I would clean all those pulleys up. I have also found that running after market belts rather than CC OEM belts are a waste of time and money, in the long run.
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  #16  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:07 AM
dbuck dbuck is offline
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Smile Oak

Very professional job on that deck Sir. Of all the rust stops that I have tried, I will not use anything but Por 15 from now on, great stuff.
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
Saluki, Cub Cadet does not know how to paint mower decks. It depends on how far you want to go on painting it.

Here is a deck I did a year or two ago.
Attachment 74488 Attachment 74489 Attachment 74490

I used this stuff a few times with good luck.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-1...3877/100371820

I've also heard great things about this stuff too.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_4ctswb9syv_b

I ran into a problem on the spindle housings when I tried to remove them and ended up having to replace them. Cub Cadet uses self tapping bolts and when I tried to remove the bolts the cast aluminum broke. I found the new housings on Ebay for about $10 each.
Attachment 74491Attachment 74492

The older decks use a better type housing and don't have this problem but I think yours are the same that are on this deck.

Good luck on your machine a keep us posted on your progress.
Wow, that deck turned out great! Getting ready to do the same thing on a 48" narrow frame deck. Gonna check out that loctite for it.
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:15 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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What is the model number and/or size of this deck..?? This model is too new for me but looks beefy.
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File Type: jpg Mower Deck-A.jpg (22.8 KB, 38 views)
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2016, 08:23 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuck View Post
If you look a posts number 5 and 8. Those pulleys look to have rust build up and debris on the deck belt running surface. Before installing a new belt, I would clean all those pulleys up. I have also found that running after market belts rather than CC OEM belts are a waste of time and money, in the long run.
I agree unless you get the right aftermarket belts,
and I ain't going into the belt debate.
That said, looking @ the pulleys condition as mentioned, run a cheap belt to help smooth them up and when it goes kerflooey, go to a good belt.
The condition of those pulleys will shorten any belts life.
On the idler pulley on the deck:
Do not let the bolt pivot in the deck, if you do, it will waller da hole out like a woodpecker in a rotten willer tree.
Get the nut off and free up the shoulder bolt in idler arm or replace it, and be sure to lube it with thick chassis grease when reassembling it.
No offence here, I'm looking out for your benefit.
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  #20  
Old 05-06-2016, 09:32 AM
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Mr. Bedell, that deck would be a 190-295-100 deck for the 3000 series. It is also known as the 295 deck. It is 54" shaft driven with striping roller. The earlier built 290 is built a lot better than this one is.

Mule drives kill belts, that is why I don't like them. Deck belts last pretty long as long as there is nothing wrong.

I run pos China TSC belts on my fan assisted bagger and can get a year out of them. I recommended him using the cheapo's for testing before dumping a ton of money into it. I agree, the Cub belts are top notch.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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