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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Engines > Onan Engines

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  #1  
Old 07-01-2014, 04:12 PM
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Fitz14 Fitz14 is offline
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Default Progress on my Onan

I got the cam shaft out of the engine that spun the cam bearing out and it's not in real bad shape after running it like I did. The marks you see in the pictures are the worst of it and they're not as bad as they look in the pic. I checked it all out with digital calipers and it measures the same as the other end. I think it was 37.xx millimeter if I remember correctly. Anyway, I'm going to order the new bearings and gaskets and get it back together. I decided to put the wide bearings back in instead of the narrow one like it spun out. Hopefully it will stay together.

Jim
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2014, 06:06 PM
Texas Blues Texas Blues is offline
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What model onan is that? I run a P220 in my Massey, looks alot like the one in your pictures. I do like the onan, specially at a high rpm, it just sings right along! Good luck on the rebuild! TB
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:32 PM
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It's supposed to be a B48G 19.9 hp. However, the tag on the shroud says B43g. But the serial number on the shroud doesn't match the serial number on the block. I think somebody put another shroud on it and didn't change the tag. The stroke on a B48g is supposed to be 2.875" and the B43g is 2.62. Source, tractordata.com looking at a 982 cc and a 318 jd. I checked the stroke on it when I got it tore down and it's 2.875. I'm assuming it's a B48 g
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:59 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Here's the bad news. A digital caliper is not precise enough of a measuring tool to check that bore. Just the fact that the bearing came out, is good indication that the press fit of the bore is not right. You can buy a new bearing, but if it just slides in, you will need to line bore the block. Which, will require complete disassembly, and a shop that is willing to do it. Just telling you so your prepared. You may have a junk block, or one that is too costly to fix.

Oh, and according to the pics in the parts book, the pic you posted is of the incorrect end. The bearing goes on the other end. The end with the drive gears.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:11 PM
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It has bearings on both ends. The one on the gear end was still intact. The one that came out was from the end pictured. Thanks
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:17 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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That's my bad. Book only shows a pic of 1, but has a quantity of 2.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:42 PM
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What would you suggest to use to measure the inside diameter. I thought the calipers would be ok. This is not my line of expertise.

Jim
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:53 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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T-Bar and a micrometer. Or a bore gauge. Or an inside micrometer. You really need a good bearing to measure it against know if it's right though.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:00 PM
Texas Blues Texas Blues is offline
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Well here is the good news......If the replacement bearings fit as they should, and your cam is in good shape, it will be an easy repair. Getting the bearings first and checking things out is the first logical step before worrying about all the doom and gloom. Yea, the bearing spun out for a reason, but it might not be a "deal killer". Good luck TB
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas Blues View Post
Well here is the good news......If the replacement bearings fit as they should, and your cam is in good shape, it will be an easy repair. Getting the bearings first and checking things out is the first logical step before worrying about all the doom and gloom. Yea, the bearing spun out for a reason, but it might not be a "deal killer". Good luck TB
In my experience, when a cam bearing comes out, it's never good. Can't say as though I've ever seen one that came out where line boring wasn't necessary.

To the OP, let's see some pics of the cam.
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