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  #61  
Old 02-19-2018, 07:05 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Yeah.... but if you tear them off one motor, but need some for the next one, you ruined good ones. I save the ones I don't use in case I need them on the next job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk View Post
Same here
I don't do enough engines to know if I will ever need the shims that could be saved, and if I do another I'll get more shims in the rebuild kit. I doubt that Mr. Bob is, at this point is concerned about his "next rebuild" and I am merely suggesting something that maybe will help him get this one done.
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  #62  
Old 02-19-2018, 09:51 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Unless you used a sealant between the gaskets, how did you tear them anyway? They shouldn't have stuck together and torn.....
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  #63  
Old 02-19-2018, 01:22 PM
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No sealant, I should have indicated that. Anyways, you can use a thin xacto knife to get a separation started between the shims. Then when you get one separated from the others all the way around just remove it. My suggestion is not meant to tell everyone with alot of experience how to do things, in time everyone develops their own techniques. I'm just trying to help Mr. Bob.
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  #64  
Old 02-19-2018, 01:27 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Sorry, I should have been more clear, my last question was for the OP.... but, I agree ironman, no sealant. That is where I was going with it also.
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  #65  
Old 02-20-2018, 10:00 AM
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Mr Bob Mr Bob is offline
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Default 149 rebuild

I didn't use sealant with the gaskets. Book called for 35 foot pounds torque on the back plate bolts. I had only torqued to 25 foot pounds and was afraid any more would break the bolts. Went back upstairs and looked at the service manual and saw inch pounds. Thought I had really over torqued them. I knew that the inch pounds were for engines other than the 149. I guess I just had another senior moment. Why I had the manual upstairs and not down stairs is another senior moment. When you are old, you always have something to blame it on. It really pressed the gaskets to the engine and when I was removing the back plate It tore the gaskets up. I was not paying close enough attention. When I did look at the gaskets, they were torn in half. New gaskets are on order and hopefully will be here by Friday. Have a great day.
Bob
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  #66  
Old 02-20-2018, 09:53 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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MrBob, I had the same feeling first time I torqued a bearing plate. I think it has something to do with the aluminum plate compressing making me think the bolts were yielding. I pulled them all out and replaced them with new grade 8 bolts. Then, with less fear of breaking a bolt, it was easier to torque them down as required.

I have to say, installing the bearing plate is probably the fussiest part of putting one of these back together. Once you get that done, it's all downhill from there.

Well, valve spring keepers are touchy---some grease on a screwdriver allows you to "stick" a keeper half to the end of the screwdriver and place it on the valve stem.

I don't have a really good valve spring compressor, and I often struggle with them. I need to upgrade mine.

Keep at it. Pics are always welcomed here!
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  #67  
Old 02-21-2018, 07:16 PM
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jbrewer jbrewer is offline
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Good work Mr B!

This is not the "Only Professional Cub Cadet Mechanics" forum, so we all learn from one another. I really appreciate you taking the time to document your build with the rest of us mere amateurs!

John
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  #68  
Old 02-24-2018, 10:19 AM
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Default 149 rebuild

New gasket and spacers came in mail yesterday. Went down this morning and cleaned both mating surfaces. Picked up 4 #8 bolts and washers(thanks for the tip Frank), and installed crank with back plate. Used all 3 spacers. Torqued it down to 135 foot pounds, torquing to 125# then up to 135#. Never felt like a bolt would break. Checked the crank to bearing clearance and it was .008. Glad I used all 3 spacers. J-Mech was talking about using ribbon gauge to check piston to wall clearance. Had no idea what ribbon gauge was. Googled it and learned something new. I ordered a set and it should be here by Wed. After the shop did the valve job, I had to tighten the Tappet adjusters all the way down to get enough clearance to the valve. I did not adjust the valves. Will wait till I get the Piston installed and fly wheel back on to find top dead center. Picture attached. Have a great day.
Bob
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  #69  
Old 02-24-2018, 11:46 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Torque on the bearing plate is 35ft lbs, not 135 in lbs..... Even though you said you torqued it to 135 ft lbs. (I know you didn't... would have broke the bolt.) I thought you said you double checked your book? Better read it again Bob. 35 ft lbs is 420 in lbs if you need the conversion.
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  #70  
Old 02-24-2018, 03:48 PM
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Will wait till I get the Piston installed and fly wheel back on to find top dead center.
Mr. Bob, without the piston or flywheel, hopefully you installed the crank with the timing marks on the crank gear and cam aligned. If so, you will be at top dead center when they are aligned. Also, the keyway slot in the crank for the flywheel will be at 12 o'clock.
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