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#1
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Engine sandblasting.
Just thought I'd share how I setup an engine for blasting. I went ahead and replaced all the gaskets and used the good black rtv to put them on, the sandblaster won't touch the black rtv so there's no fear of any sand getting in. For the vent I used a spare cover and filled the vent hole with jb weld and put some duck tape on the outside just for some extra protection, the sandblaster won't go through the duck tape either. For the exhaust and intake I used rubber expandable plugs, I started off with the plug in the elbow but a quick spin of the engine revealed a leak where it meets the block so I removed the elbow and plugged the block directly. For the dipstick I used a big bolt that fit snug in the hole, I put a little rtv on it before putting it in and wrapped some tape around it for a little extra insurance. I removed the points and plunger and made a plate for there and sealed it up with a little rtv, as you can see I left the flywheel and basket pulley on which will protect the seals from being hit directly with the blaster. I wrapped the head with tape because it's already been bead blasted and I don't want it getting hit with the courser sand I will be using. Hope this helps
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#2
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Um...Ya might want to degrease that block 1st
Sand will just bounce off that hard baked on grease. Myself, I'd never sandblast a block. |
#3
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The big blaster we have takes it right off, it took all of about 5 minutes to blast the engine. On your engines you can do what you want but as long as its sealed up good it wont hurt a thing, every tractor we restore gets the engine sandblasted after its rebuilt and we've never had an issue and we're talking well over 100 engines.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#4
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yeah there's no issues doing it this way if it's done the way Tim has shown. Dont knock it until you try it. Very tedious with all the nooks and crannies that there are any other way.
I'm a fan. Not that it matters but I have also done it as well as a transmission. If the precautions are taken it's all good.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#5
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The Onan boys salt blast their engines. Never tried that but they say the salt won't harm the bearings.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#6
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Soda blast?
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#7
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would love to see some 'after' pics, both pre finish and post finish. (and what type of finish do you use?)
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#8
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The yellow is case/IH irongard and the black is 1200° hi temp.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#9
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I have done this before, but upon teardown/ what I did was cut up an old inner tube and made "gaskets" for every thing along with metal cover plates that would bolt on in place of carb, exhaust etc.... in my case, this was a cast iron Tecumseh, back when parts were more available than they are now a days for those.... I haven't worked on one of "those" in a while now....
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