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#1
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Blade and mowing Questions
I have a 105 with a 38" 3 spindle deck. It cuts pretty good for having dull blades
I noticed when looking on the cub parts sites that there are 2 types of blades; regular and hardened. I did not see any mulching blades. Any tips or suggestions? When I turn corners, it seems to be leaving some grass, or not cutting all of the grass. I'm not mowing fast, but if i slow way down more when cornering it seems to help. Replacing the blades will help, but what is with it not cutting in corners (vs cutting corners )
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1969 105 |
#2
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Sharpening your blades will help a lot, if you have a tach check to see that your engine is running at the correct 3600 rpm with no load on it. If your mowing to fast its not uncommon to leave some grass behind.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#3
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Thanks Olds. I have been reading some of the posts about tachs. I see one in the near future.
Any thoughts on mulching blades on old decks?
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1969 105 |
#4
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Quote:
have to do with cuttin' grass?? |
#5
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Tacos sound good! Just ate though! If it were me I'd get the hardened blades. They hold and edge longer. Hence they last longer.
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake! |
#6
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When you cut around a corner, you change the angle of attack of the deck. The blades have the most overlap going straight forward or reverse. When you are turning, the grass is coming in at an angle and there is less overlap between the blades. Also the front wheels normally knock down grass in front of the blade, this grass is cut by the blade perpendicular to travel. The blade is able to cut the knocked down grass twice as it travels over it (front and back of blade path). When you are turning, the wheels knock down grass that is cut by the blade parallel to travel and the blade only has one shot to lift and cut it. Both factors lead to leaving grass around turns. The problem is exaggerated by dull blades or blades sharpened almost to the wing. These old decks don't have high lift blades. Mulching blades are about the only option for them, but I've read they don't do much for a better cut, just makes the clippings smaller.
FWIW, I only have the none cutting around corner issue when I make the initial 2 passes around my house and yard perimeter. The rest of the time I am going in straight lines back and forth, no turns to mow around. If you are starting on the outside and mow in circles till your done, it will give you the worst looking cut because your constantly mowing around corners. Bill |
#7
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When I used those older decks, I had the same problem whether the blades were sharp or dull. They don't like 90* corners. In one of the Cub manuals, it shows how to mow corners. Go past the corner, turn the tractor around and hit the corner square on. That way you're not dragging the deck sideways over the grass. I bought a set or two of those hardened blades. They'd last forever before getting dull compared to the standard blades. Very pricey though. |
#8
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I'd go for the hardened ones. that way when you get to a stick you don't have to get off you can just run it over and BLAWWWMMOOOOO instant mulch.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#9
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Only difference between the hardened and non is they hold an edge longer. |
#10
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Okaaayy...sooo, get the hardened ones so you don't have to sharpen them as quickly.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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