Running quietline without the muffler air box.

[cadetpwr]

Can you get away with running a quietline without the air box around the muffler? My wifes cast alum frame is broken with most of the holes stripped out, the tin work is not much better with cracks and missing pieces from years of use loose with bad motor mounts(typical). Its not our primary mowing tractor, but mostly as a butt buggy for her at shows and plow days. I thought about just putting the top heat deflector plate on the engine like used in a 149 to direct the worst of the heat down away from the headlights and IH emblem. Also maybe wrap the muffler with header wrap used on hot rods to keep the heat at bay.

[cubby102]

Originally Posted by cadetpwr

Can you get away with running a quietline without the air box around the muffler? My wifes cast alum frame is broken with most of the holes stripped out, the tin work is not much better with cracks and missing pieces from years of use loose with bad motor mounts(typical). Its not our primary mowing tractor, but mostly as a butt buggy for her at shows and plow days. I thought about just putting the top heat deflector plate on the engine like used in a 149 to direct the worst of the heat down away from the headlights and IH emblem. Also maybe wrap the muffler with header wrap used on hot rods to keep the heat at bay.

Heat will build up on the side panels and hood along with the lights. What I've done in the past if they are beyond saving just drill some new holes in what's left of the good material and tighten it back down.

[IHCubCadet147]

When I got my 1450 the muffler box was missing. The top of the hood would get to hot to even touch it. I’m sure that’s why the emblem was missing too, it probably melted. Keep in mind the gas tank is right there under the hood too, so a potential fire hazard. You might get away with it if you ran it without the side panels as well to let the heat out.

[cadetpwr]

I will try to piece it back together. I know the heat will be an issue, hence wrapping the muffler with header wrap used on hot rods to keep underhood heat at bay when you run exhaust headers on a high performance V8. The hod of 149 that I mowed with for years would get to hot to touch after mowing grass for any length of time. Just the nature of the beast. If it melts the IH emblem, I will find one of the diecast ones to replace it. Hopefully my meager MIG welding skills and some new holes in the alum casting will piece it back together. Need to weld up a few cracks and add a washer or two welded where the bolts are supposed to be on the air box.

[finsruskw]

Bend up a new box from a bit thicker metal.
New re-pros are available also I believe.

[cadetpwr]

Is anybody doing a repro of the cast mount that attaches to the box to the engine? I can rework the metal box itself, its the casting that is a total mess on her 1450. I will get the 1450 back in the shop here shortly, working on my 782d, it had fuel line issues letting air get into the fuel system. So time to renew all the original rubber fuel lines and clean the tank.

[ol'George]

Have you tried the usual sources at the top of the page for a good used cast mount, or other online sites that sell used parts.
I have seen them pop up once in a while.
I'm not all that warm and fuzzy with wrapping the muffler with heat wrap, thinking one wants to get rid of the heat not contain it.
But I haven't given it any research.
Oh and I find if you are good at gas welding it works wonderfully on thin Sheetmetal like the cooling shrouds.
Back in the day, gas welding is all we used doing body work as we didn't have the modern fancy mig stuff.

[ironman]

Here's a cast aluminum piece on flea-pay.
Rather pricey but they're rare, and what's rare is usually expensive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/19560438452...QAAOSwhWdj7pl8

Also, be aware that you should make a bracket like this to support the muffler and prevent the casting from cracking.