79 chevy

[drcjv]

Stainless steel bolts are not stronger than ordinary steel bolts
This is clearly true for the majority of stainless steel bolts. Stainless steel in general has very little carbon, and because of that, most grades of stainless steel cannot be hardened by heat treatment. Stainless steel bolts are, in most cases, just slightly stronger than Grade 2 bolts, and in nearly all cases, significantly less than Grade 5. You do NOT want to use common-grade stainless fasteners in any application that would call for a hardened (Grade 5 or Grade 8, or stronger) fastener. There are Stainless bolts made that have a tensile strength greater than a typical Grade 8 fastener, but keep in mind that tensile strength is not the only measure of bolt quality/strength. Common grades of stainless steel may have reasonable tensile strength, but significantly less yield strength than a "regular" steel bolt--the stainless bolts are more "stretchy" and "soft. This makes it easy to snap or twist a stainless bolt. I have replaced most hardware on all my supers to stainless as one rain or wash causes the steel bolts to haze over with rust. I don't change any where the strength would be an issue. Stainless is expensive so I just took a few bolts home each night so my wife didn't notice. She is in charge of the hardware. Right now she has me in time out for taking too much home from our store.

[johns cubs]

Obviously not all the bolts but the body bolts and what ever else don't have to be hardened. Any thoughts??[/QUOTE]

I might not have been clear. I was considering using stainless bolts for bolting rear fenders back onto the box side, the side mirrors, inner fenders, grill, headlight door screws.
The only bolts that differ on the vortec heads from pre 87 heads are the 4 directly around the throttle body/carb, which are the same on all post 87 heads. the head to block bolts are all the same.

[drcjv]

There should be no issue with changing all those bolts as I said I do it on all my supers. Here are sum I put on exhaust.

[johns cubs]

I am just trying to plan ahead! Will own this truck as long as I am able to climb up in it and if i have to take something back apart i would rather not have to fight with the rust. Where can I get stainless exaust pipe, mufflers and clamps? Its got hooker headers on it now but not SS. Also I see a guy on my local CL that rebuilds Holley carbs and he advertises that all the carbs he sells are plated, any idea what he dips them in?

[sbauerz28]

Originally Posted by johns cubs

Obviously not all the bolts but the body bolts and what ever else don't have to be hardened. Any thoughts??

I might not have been clear. I was considering using stainless bolts for bolting rear fenders back onto the box side, the side mirrors, inner fenders, grill, headlight door screws.
The only bolts that differ on the vortec heads from pre 87 heads are the 4 directly around the throttle body/carb, which are the same on all post 87 heads. the head to block bolts are all the same.[/QUOTE]

I don't see any problem with stainless for the items you mentioned. It common practice for show trucks.
I don't want to sound rude in anyway, but you should just google "vortec intake" or something like that and look at how they bolt to the heads. True vortec intake manifold bolts go straight down from the top. True vortec heads would be your best bang for your buck iron head though. The only thing you need to watch is your cam selection with those heads. Without machine work they will only handle about .470 lift. Anything more than that and you will have retainer to oil seal clearance issues.

[Mike McKown]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Maybe you owned a turd.

All the ones I ever owned or drove were pretty impressive. Able to tow large loads, and roast the tires off when not.

Maybe I did. That's what I said in my post and my truck was no diferent than the next.

If what you drove was "pretty impressive" and "roast the tires off when not" then you obviously didn't have something the factory put together. Either that or you impress easily. You look way too young to even know how a '70's Chevy pickup ran when it was new.

When new, the '71-early '80's SB pickup trucks were all miserable runners compared to a '70 model on back. But I don't expect you to know that for a fact 'cause you look like about a '70's model to me. Maybe '80's.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Mike McKown

Maybe I did. That's what I said in my post and my truck was no diferent than the next.

If what you drove was "pretty impressive" and "roast the tires off when not" then you obviously didn't have something the factory put together. Either that or you impress easily. You look way too young to even know how a '70's Chevy pickup ran when it was new.

When new, the '71-early '80's SB pickup trucks were all miserable runners compared to a '70 model on back. But I don't expect you to know that for a fact 'cause you look like about a '70's model to me. Maybe '80's.

Mike

I get it that you and John don't plan on exchanging Christmas cards. Do me a favor and cool it please. Thank You.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by drcjv

Stainless steel bolts are not stronger than ordinary steel bolts
This is clearly true for the majority of stainless steel bolts. Stainless steel in general has very little carbon, and because of that, most grades of stainless steel cannot be hardened by heat treatment. Stainless steel bolts are, in most cases, just slightly stronger than Grade 2 bolts, and in nearly all cases, significantly less than Grade 5. You do NOT want to use common-grade stainless fasteners in any application that would call for a hardened (Grade 5 or Grade 8, or stronger) fastener. There are Stainless bolts made that have a tensile strength greater than a typical Grade 8 fastener, but keep in mind that tensile strength is not the only measure of bolt quality/strength. Common grades of stainless steel may have reasonable tensile strength, but significantly less yield strength than a "regular" steel bolt--the stainless bolts are more "stretchy" and "soft. This makes it easy to snap or twist a stainless bolt. I have replaced most hardware on all my supers to stainless as one rain or wash causes the steel bolts to haze over with rust. I don't change any where the strength would be an issue.

X2

Unless we get in a pinch or are holding down plastic parts, we never use stainless for clamp bolts in fixtures at the machine shop I work at. If we have to use them because we are out of regular bolts, I'll have the operators throw them out every couple parts.

[johns cubs]

Wow, sorry guys! I wasn't trying to start a war! Just lookin for opinions on using SS bolts vs factory replacement for future disassembly purposes. FWIW all my old chevy trucks had no issues with gettin out of its own way. Thanks to everyone for the helpful info! Appreciated as always! That engine looks great Sam! Out of one of your old racers?

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by johns cubs

Wow, sorry guys! I wasn't trying to start a war! Just lookin for opinions on using SS bolts vs factory replacement for future disassembly purposes. FWIW all my old chevy trucks had no issues with gettin out of its own way. Thanks to everyone for the helpful info! Appreciated as always! That engine looks great Sam! Out of one of your old racers?

John

That was one of my race engines 383 that made 506 hp and 501 ft lbs on the dyno. Hydraulic lifter roller motor. It was built to have a big flat torque curve. It would come off the corners and pull like a train. Fun engine to drive.