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  #11  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:09 PM
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DeltaCub DeltaCub is offline
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You guys are all wrong! It is plane too sea that its got to be the kanooder valve. you dont need no whole sawz just a hack sawz. you start buy kutting across the frame in front of the seet. cut all the down and everthing inside. then bend the tractter like a bendy straw so yoos can get to the kanooder valve .then replace the startr switch
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
Ok, first of all, we need pictures. How is anybody supposed to help you if we don't have pictures?
I don't know how to upload pictures..... all this stuff is so hard.


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Originally Posted by PaulS View Post
I think the nut that holds the wheel is a bit loose. Lol
The steering wheel? Or the rear wheel? I'm so confused......


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Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
What do the guys on the JD forum say? I know you've probably asked them about your Cub first. Don't forget to ask your old uncle Al, the one that used to work for a farmer back in the '30s. He'll know whats wrong!
I didn't even think about the John Deere forum. I was getting ready to make a post of Facebook. I hear the Cub Cadet pages on there are just full of really smart people who are extremely helpful!


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Originally Posted by DeltaCub View Post
You guys are all wrong! It is plane too sea that its got to be the kanooder valve. you dont need no whole sawz just a hack sawz. you start buy kutting across the frame in front of the seet. cut all the down and everthing inside. then bend the tractter like a bendy straw so yoos can get to the kanooder valve .then replace the startr switch
That is such an awesome idea! That seems way easier.... bending it in half like that. I do have two hacksaws. Maybe I can duct tape them together to get done twice as fast!!!



Seriously guys..... I really was mowing and the tractor just stopped. That really happened....
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  #13  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:19 PM
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I recommend you scrap the 1811 and go buy Lew's new to him Simplicity!
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:19 PM
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Seriously guys, the John Deere forum is great..... I really was mowing and the tractor just stopped. Then all the plastic fell off. That really happened....
Check the roll pin
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  #15  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:26 PM
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Check the roll pin
Roll pin?

Rolling_Pin_.jpg
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  #16  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:29 PM
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Seriously guys, the John Deere forum is great..... I really was mowing and the tractor just stopped. Then all the plastic fell off. That really happened....

Did I really say this?
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  #17  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:30 PM
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Well from what I see and hear you better get on Facebook and ask the "profeshionals"

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  #18  
Old 10-22-2017, 11:23 PM
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Jon, just wait till the morning and Sam will be on. He'll know what to do.
Just curious, you didn't eat before you went mowing? Did you? You waited at least an hour? OR was that something else all together?
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  #19  
Old 10-22-2017, 11:38 PM
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Well from what I see and hear you better get on Facebook and ask the "profeshionals"

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Jon, just wait till the morning and Sam will be on. He'll know what to do.
Just curious, you didn't eat before you went mowing? Did you? You waited at least an hour? OR was that something else all together?

I really hope either can help.
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2017, 11:58 PM
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Well...


I'll spill it. The tractor really did stop moving while I was mowing. I wasn't too phased. BTDT. Drug it up to the shop to see which pin broke. It was the one on the motor. Went to the "stash" to get a new one..... and I was out of them. Dang it. Took them with me my last trip to my bro's and installed them on his 126 when we put the creeper in. I forgot to order more. Oh well. I have enough parts laying around, I just grabbed a used driveshaft off the shelf and knocked out the pin and put it in the 1811. Took longer to go get my pin punches that were in my toolbox 2 miles away. I did sit down and order a new box of pins though. McMaster Carr. $12 + shipping for a box of 50 of them. I like to keep them on the shelf. Way better deal than buying from CCC. They want nearly $3 per pin!! I did order the regular ones. Not sure if I should have got the harder ones. Sheer strength on the regular ones is like 5500# as opposed to 7700# or something like that on the harder ones. They were $12 for a box of 25, so double the cost. No reason not to keep things that fail on the shelf boys. I should have ordered some tie rod ends too. I think I used the last I had this spring.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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