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#1
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K301A with no spark Update. #3
This K301A is in a 126 frame.Last time I had a no spark 3 years ago all I had to do was clean the plug wire and socket in the coil for the plug wire because of a little corrosion. This time that did not work. Nothing else in the electrical system is showing any issues like a bad wire. Plug wire isnt that old either. Ran fine when I shut it down for the winter and pulled the battery. I also cleaned the contacts. I am thinking condenser and point wires. Am I going in the right direction? or should I be headed a different way?
Thanks Shane |
#2
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A couple things to check:
* Do you have 12V on the + side of the coil? * If so you might make sure the points are conducting when they're closing
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#3
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I would bet the points need cleaned from sitting.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#4
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I second this.
Believe it or not, I had a tractor shut off because the points lost conductivity. Ran a little sandpaper through them and it started back up. |
#5
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I did sand the contacts using 200 and 600 grit. 200 to break any oxidation. 600 to get a flat clean surface. Then a little either on a fabric rag to clean off dust
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#6
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Have to check voltage when i get home
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#7
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That's the best, most effective way to find the issue. Guessing and replacing parts is silly, and expensive.
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#8
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As i think about it, i dont think i am getting full 12 volts there. I have a battery charger i tried thinking the battery was weak from sitting. This charger allows to be used to jump start. Even with that boost it wasnt sparking. I did change the plug and the plug wire is relatively new. Not sure if that helps
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#9
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Update
There is a 12 volt charge registering at the positive terminal on the coil. I also cleaned the condenser of dirt to make better contact still has not allowed a spark at the plug
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#10
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OK, one other check . Is there 12V +/- there while the engine is cranking? I know this sounds odd, but you need voltage to the primary of the coil while the engine is running and while cranking. It'll be lower as Mr Ohm steals voltage while the battery is supplying cranking current , but it should be present.
If that's OK: Disconnect the condenser . Measure resistance from the condenser wire to the case of the condenser. It should be "open" . Is it? If it is, hook it back up to the secondary and remove the secondary wire from coil to points. Loosen the spark plug to make turning the engine over easier. Key off. measure resistance across the disconnected secondary coil wire and the ground side of the points while you turn the engine over by hand. Can you see the points open and close with the ohmmeter? You'll get this! John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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