Cub cadet 1200 drive shaft problem - help!!

[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by CUBRAT

Your right Bob, they should have the same drive shaft. I do not have my orginal drive shaft. I wouldve bought mine from Jeff, but I found out about him too late ( I already ordered all my parts for the clutch). I did order my solid mount hardware from him, but not the mounts themselves. I ordered the mounts a long time ago, but couldnt find the hardware locally.

Im pretty sure my problem will be solved if I could find the accurate measurement I need.

I could add another flex coupler to fill the gap, but that would make the clutch side of the shaft too long and will push the drive plate against the 3 pin driver.

I may have kept my original driveshaft. I know where t would be if I did. I'm home today and I'll look for it later.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by CUBRAT

Anyone happen to have the measurement from the center of the rear flange hole to the end of the drive shaft?
Mine is 1 1/4", it should be shorter.....

I have the old driveshaft that I pulled out of my 1976 1200. I don't know if it was the original. I actually filled the hole for the rear spirol pin with some filler rod and some weld when I added a second rag joint, but it looks like it was 1 1/8" from the end of the shaft to the center of the hole. It it helps, the driveshaft is 19 1/16" long.

Good luck.

[dodge trucker]

yeah it is weird that (some) QL's with solid mounts shake so much, since there are so many tractors out there (including other Cubs) with solidly mounted Kohlers that don't shake. My 129 doesn't shake, and it is a solid mount/ the 1200 that I overhauled the engine on does a little, not bad.... but the previous 1200 that I attempted to run solid mounts on was so bad I couldn't stand it... and I put everything new on that one too... shaft and all clutch components... so I wound up redoing it with new rubber mounts... BUT back then I did not know about the cradle mod, which I did on the more recent 1200 that coincidentally got the same set of solids put onto it that had been attempted to put onto the 1st 1200...

[J-Mech]

Well.... you did the solid conversion wrong.

No way it's just engine vibration that hurts your feet. ALL the Cub Cadets prior to that series had solid mounted engines, and foot rests were all metal. No vibration to complain about with the older ones. If your engine does vibrate that much, there is something wrong with it.

Deltacub covered most of the errors you made..... if you want to fix it, you should listen to us on what to do. Otherwise, you are wasting your time and money, and our time.

[CUBRAT]

Originally Posted by twoton

I have the old driveshaft that I pulled out of my 1976 1200. I don't know if it was the original. I actually filled the hole for the rear spirol pin with some filler rod and some weld when I added a second rag joint, but it looks like it was 1 1/8" from the end of the shaft to the center of the hole. It it helps, the driveshaft is 19 1/16" long.

Good luck.

Hmm, mine is 19 3/16" in total length, 1/8" longer than yours.

Your center of flange hole to the end of shaft is 1/8" shorter than mine, so that is the difference.

I guess that will be a good starting point.

Something still doesnt seem right, I dont think 1/8" off mine is going to make a difference since there 3/8" between the flange and flex disc.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by CUBRAT

On the clutch, driveshaft is new and straight, clutch plates resurfaced, new clutch disc, new teaser, new spiral pins, new cup, new release arm, throwout bearing is good and reused the main spring. Also a new 3 pin driver and the bushing is new in the tranny input flange.

OK, you say you put in a new 3 pin driver but is it a flex 3-pin or a solid 3-pin. If you went solid with everything else and used a flex 3-pin maybe this could possibly give you vibration. Even with no vibration I doubt a flex 3-pin would take the abuse for long.

I just did two 1200's this summer, went with Jeff's solid mounts, new solid 3 pin drivers, new discs, doubled the flex couplers in at the tranny, and my only problem was some clutch drag until they got broken in. When used, vibration to me was no worse to me than other non-ql's I have and I found them to be just fine to work with.

I'm thinkin' you have quite a bit of time and money into this and just have to refine your results and will not be quite as disappointed once you find the sweet spot. Keep digging!

[twoton]

CUBRAT, the old drives shaft that I was referencing also has a concave area at the end of the shaft where the 5/8" centering ball rides which will further reduce that 19 1/16" length. I don't know if that is an original to the shaft or just a function of wear from contact with the centering ball?...

[DeltaCub]

Originally Posted by twoton

CUBRAT, the old drives shaft that I was referencing also has a concave area at the end of the shaft where the 5/8" centering ball rides which will further reduce that 19 1/16" length. I don't know if that is an original to the shaft or just a function of wear from contact with the centering ball?...

That is some big time wear! Should not have that recessed place on the end.

[ironman]

He hasn't answered my question whether he used a solid 3-pin drive plate or a flex 3-pin drive plate. With a solid driver the drive shaft slides directly into the bushing in the center of the drive plate and you don't need no gosh dang balls.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by DeltaCub

That is some big time wear! Should not have that recessed place on the end.

I make my replacement driveshaft FLAT on the ends.