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  #61  
Old 11-02-2017, 12:45 AM
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Glad you found something. Years of working on the hydraulic systems of bucket trucks for a utility company proved to me that many times a line looks good on the outside and is crap on the inside. Always check for flow.
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  #62  
Old 11-04-2017, 08:59 PM
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Vrobert Vrobert is offline
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I had great success putting the old girl back together with a new oil line. The pressure stays around 40 PSI so thank you all for the helpful comments. Now that I know the motor is good I intend to restore the worn out parts and clean her up a little.

I drove it around a bit to make sure everything was back together correctly. I already replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the carb and adjusted it so it was running and idling real well. I noticed the governor seemed to overreact when changing speeds so I decided re-adjust the carb and governor while the engine was warmed up and I had all the tools out. Well, things went downhill from there. I can't get this thing to idle any more. I read the manual but maybe I'm doing things in the wrong order. Can you guys help me get this thing purring like a kitten again?

The fast idle mix was easy to adjust. I set it close to the 2.5 turns out that the book mentioned, halfway between rich and lean. I loosened the gov. shaft nut, moved the long side away from the carb and tried to rotate the shaft clockwise. It didn't move any so it was already set. I moved the gov spring from hole 3 to hole 5 on the throttle lever although the book mentions hole 6. Mine only has 5 holes on the throttle arm. See pic. When I try to adjust the idle speed and mixture the gov hunts up and down. If I defeat the gov. and force the throttle closed to the idle speed screw it either revs too high or revs too low and dies. Since my throttle arm only has 5 holes do I have the wrong tuning instructions?

Any help is appreciated.
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  #63  
Old 11-04-2017, 09:14 PM
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Try putting the governor spring back into the hole it was originally in before this problem started. Regardless of what the book says as to number of holes, the holes in the arm are there to be able to adjust gov sensitivity. Basically more or less initial tension on the spring. Question - how worn are the throttle shaft bushings in the carb? If there is a lot of wear, so that the shaft is loose, you probably won't get a good steady idle until it is rebuilt or replaced. The gov expects the carb to respond but it has to take up all the slop first. A loose shaft can also be vacuum leak on some carbs, which effects mixture adjustments.
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  #64  
Old 11-04-2017, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
Question - how worn are the throttle shaft bushings in the carb? If there is a lot of wear, so that the shaft is loose, you probably won't get a good steady idle until it is rebuilt or replaced. The gov expects the carb to respond but it has to take up all the slop first. A loose shaft can also be vacuum leak on some carbs, which effects mixture adjustments.
From this point on I totally agree.
Check the throttle shaft. Sounds like it is loose.


Moving the governor from hole to hole should make no difference on how it runs. Only how sensitive the governor is. (That's the only reason I disagree with the first half of the statement.)
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  #65  
Old 11-04-2017, 11:53 PM
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Exactly. My only reason for mentioning putting the spring back in the original position was to possibly eliminate the gov hunting he said it started doing. Probably should have clarified that I started down a different road. Without rereading the entire post to see if this has already been done, we should mention that the fuel system should be cleaned and new hoses installed. He may have picked up some trash in the carb during the test ride. It's hard to move forward unless those initial steps have been completed.
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  #66  
Old 11-05-2017, 07:38 PM
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Default Rescued 1811 ran poorly, now fixed!

You guys came through once again with your keep-it-simple advice.

I went through the fuel system, replaced the lines and filter, and pulled the carb. My newly rebuilt Kohler carb was full of crud again! I had installed an old fuel filter that I had laying around and it was apparently dirty inside. So she tuned up real easy runs well again. Now I feel like I have good tractor that just needs some TLC to make it work like brand new "real" tractor.

The next thing I plan to do is try out the 50C deck that came with it. The blades are still sharp and the bearings still spin. I pressure washed it, coated the whole thing with WD40 and greased the zerks. The PTO seems to work so next weekend I'll give it a try.

I just ordered 4 wheel bearings. Mine are quite loose. While I have the wheels off I'll pull the axle bolt and see if I can tighten it up. The axle adjuster bolt heads have dished out the axle where they rub so I plan to file that area flat again. A few of the heim joints are a little loose too. I already rebuilt the steering shaft.

The real reason I wanted an old cub is to move snow. At 53 years old there's only so much I can do with a snow shovel before my back gives out. My troy bilt isn't "bilt" for anything more than mowing grass and even that requires a lot of repairs. It breaks almost every time I start it. I have a 46" MTD blade that is the correct width for the wide frame. It has quick pins that fit the front two holes in the cub frame. I just need to chop up a mule drive and weld it to the blade mount so that it snaps into all the correct mounting points. I also want to convert the blade to hydro lift. It has the long hand lift that barely works. I'll start another thread with my blade ideas and include pics.

Thanks again guys.
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  #67  
Old 11-05-2017, 07:52 PM
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Have you cleaned the fuel tank?
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  #68  
Old 11-05-2017, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaCub View Post
Have you cleaned the fuel tank?
What she said! Its pretty simple to do and you'll thank yourself in the long run. Your fuel supply can is clean right? I've known instances where those got contaminated and caused issues.
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  #69  
Old 11-05-2017, 08:53 PM
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Sounds like you're well on your beating all the gremlins. Do a complete service on the tractor, filters, oils, the works. New plugs. Clean the fuel tank if you haven't already. Use good fresh gas and then work the tractor for a bit and see how things are. Hang in there. You got a Cub, it won't die if you take good care of it.
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  #70  
Old 11-05-2017, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrobert View Post
I have a 46" MTD blade that is the correct width for the wide frame. It has quick pins that fit the front two holes in the cub frame. I just need to chop up a mule drive and weld it to the blade mount so that it snaps into all the correct mounting points. I also want to convert the blade to hydro lift. It has the long hand lift that barely works. I'll start another thread with my blade ideas and include pics.

Thanks again guys.

Just find a wide frame blade and use it. They are usually only about $100-$125. Angle will be a bit odd for the cyclops, but if you can weld, it's pretty easy to change that. Whole lot easier than trying to completely modify a blade to work on a tractor it wasn't made for.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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