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  #11  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:44 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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If the speed change is considerable either up or down hill, I would plan on pulling the rear, replacing the springs and buttons in the trunion, weld up the slot if needed, shim out whatever is sloppy, adjust any linkages that need it and try it again. If the rear end needs a fluid change I'd do it at the same time. Probably not going to be perfect, but should be better. While you're at it inspect the driveline.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by john hall View Post
If the speed change is considerable either up or down hill, I would plan on pulling the rear, replacing the springs and buttons in the trunion, weld up the slot if needed, shim out whatever is sloppy, adjust any linkages that need it and try it again. If the rear end needs a fluid change I'd do it at the same time. Probably not going to be perfect, but should be better. While you're at it inspect the driveline.
Ditto.... what John said
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:49 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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It's hard to tell for sure without being there. It all depends on how steep the hills are and how badly it slows.

It's the same as driving on flat ground or driving on flat ground while pulling something very heavy, in order to get the same ground speed you will need more stick to pull something heavy.

If you think the difference is too great, then it may be time to do a little work on it.

When I mow the highway ditches here at home, and I get to the end, I always have to push the levers forward to pull up out of them (they ARE pretty steep though).
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2016, 06:58 AM
samckitt samckitt is offline
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Originally Posted by john hall View Post
If the speed change is considerable either up or down hill, I would plan on pulling the rear, replacing the springs and buttons in the trunion, weld up the slot if needed, shim out whatever is sloppy, adjust any linkages that need it and try it again. If the rear end needs a fluid change I'd do it at the same time. Probably not going to be perfect, but should be better. While you're at it inspect the driveline.
That sounds fun. Where could I find instructions/manual on this rebuild process? Thanks for the info.
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  #15  
Old 03-25-2016, 07:50 AM
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That sounds fun. Where could I find instructions/manual on this rebuild process? Thanks for the info.
A few folks posted pics of what they did as well as links to working on hydros. searching the forums you will find where several folks have worked on these.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...trunion+repair

It's not a 5 minute job by any means. It is pretty cheap if all you are doing is replacing springs (I replace the little buttons too). Handling the rear end can be a little aggravating, I think putting it back is the hardest part. Got anyone that can help start bolts if needed? The whole job works best if you are on concrete (didn't know about your work area). Once you pull the fender pan I would maybe roll the mower outside for a bath. If you plan on doing it all in one day, then a face shield and compressed air---they can get pretty nasty. Really hard to say if you will find your trunion needing welding. Some hardly have wear, some are a miracle in that they are still connected at each end. If you suspect your driveline is old and needs rebuilding, pull the tunnel cover and have a look at the components. This is definetly one of those repairs where one thing can lead to another, kind of exploratory surgery if you will. You open things up to do one thing and then find something else so in order to save 2 hrs labor, the lawn mower sits for a week while you wait on more parts.
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  #16  
Old 03-25-2016, 01:26 PM
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Maybe I missed it somewhere but are you moving the hydro lever at all when going up the hill? It's like a gas pedal in a car, when going up hill you normally have to increase pressure on the gas pedal to maintain speed in a car going up hill. The same works on a hydro. You have to move the lever up to compensate for the mower slowing down when going up hill. I'm just making sure this is happening. If you are adjusting the lever and the mower is still slowing down then you do have an issue that needs to be checked.
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  #17  
Old 05-27-2016, 06:29 AM
samckitt samckitt is offline
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Maybe I missed it somewhere but are you moving the hydro lever at all when going up the hill? It's like a gas pedal in a car, when going up hill you normally have to increase pressure on the gas pedal to maintain speed in a car going up hill. The same works on a hydro. You have to move the lever up to compensate for the mower slowing down when going up hill. I'm just making sure this is happening. If you are adjusting the lever and the mower is still slowing down then you do have an issue that needs to be checked.
I am moving it to go faster when going up hill otherwise sometimes it almost stops. And vise versa going down hill.

I ordered the end pads & springs to replace. I ordered them from Cub Cadet Partstree the first of may, never came never came, so I called, the end pads were on back order & werent going to be there until around the end of June. Canceled the order, ordered from Messicks.com on Tuesday, had them on Thursday.

Doesnt look like I need to do any welding, but need to shim it up so it's centered.
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2016, 10:52 PM
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From the picture you provided, your springs and end caps look fine. I've had the end caps close to gone, and yours look new.
I don't think replacing them is going to change anything.
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2016, 08:09 AM
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From the picture you provided, your springs and end caps look fine. I've had the end caps close to gone, and yours look new.
I don't think replacing them is going to change anything.
I'm with Zippy, yours look fine---way better than what you normally find. There is nothing to weld up there.

I have never seen one where the springs were centered perfect, as long as they are close you should be fine.

First off, that hydro needs a cleaning, time to break out the air hose or water hose. The shims I mentioned earlier were regarding some of plates that move, with old age they get a little sloppy and you have to buy/make thin shims to tighten things up a bit. As good as your trunion looks, you may not need them. With the fenders off, check all you linkages and see if everything is moving full stroke like it should. How old is the fluid and filter? I'm not saying change it yet in case you have other problems that will require opening up the hydro, just want to know if you KNOW it is fresh clean oil. I learned this past winter about water in the hydro plugging the filter and causing grief.

Do some cleaning and checking and report back. Plenty of hydro gurus hear to offer advice. I have never seen one that would try to stop climbing a hill, unless it was so steep you didn't have any business climbing it to start with. I have seen them lose and gain speed on hills, but not to the degree you are talking about.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2016, 09:41 PM
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I don't know how old the fluid is, guy I got it from didn't know either. Tells me it probably needs changes. But I will try doing some cleaning first. I couldn't do much of anything this weekend here, rain most of the weekend.
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