Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Speciaalties R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Implements and Attachments

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-30-2014, 08:53 PM
Billy-O's Avatar
Billy-O Billy-O is online now
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,752
Default Removing Broken Pin from Implement Lift

On my 125, I have a broken pin for the release rod (push button for implement lift) and I wonder how I can get it off?

Lift Pin in Handle.jpg

Below is a picture of the spare release pin I plan to replace the broken one. The red arrow points where the old pin has broken off. The part of the push pin to the left is still threaded to the release rod inside the lift handle.

Implement Lift Pin.jpg

What I have done so far was to remove the ratchet from the implement lift assembly in hopes that I may be able to push up the lift rod enough to grip the broken pin and unthread it from the release rod. It pushes up just barely enough to just about reach the top of the handle tube. I can grip it with long nose vise grip but not a regular vise grip or pliers. The long nose pliers (vise-grip) is too springy and doesn't hold so good when I try to unthread the broken pin. Very close but no dice!

Has anybody any ideas or suggestions? Hopefully, someone here has been down this road before! Thanks for looking and any help is much appreciated!
__________________
Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks
Plow blade
#2 Cart
QA36 snowthower
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-30-2014, 09:25 PM
gdheck's Avatar
gdheck gdheck is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Osage City, KS
Posts: 423
Default

In situations like this I have had good luck building up the end of a bolt with weld (NOT mig) until I can grab it with regular vise-grips. I say not mig because it doesn't burn hot enough at the very start to get a good weld and will break off right at the start of the weld most of the time. I usually use a torch, but I have had good luck with a stick welder too. Just add to the stem until it sticks up a 1/2" or so above the tube. Be sure to pull the rubber grip off before you start or you may melt it.
__________________
2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-30-2014, 09:33 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdheck View Post
I say not mig because it doesn't burn hot enough at the very start to get a good weld and will break off right at the start of the weld most of the time.
You must not have used a MIG much. It will work fine.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-30-2014, 09:47 PM
gdheck's Avatar
gdheck gdheck is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Osage City, KS
Posts: 423
Default

I use migs for sheetmetal a lot, but I haven't had good luck in this type of situation. I have to remove a lot of bolts from 1/4" - 1/2" that are broken off well below the surface of a cast iron part and the wire can touch a thread above the bolt where a stick won't arc as easily. In this case a mig will probably work ok.
__________________
2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-30-2014, 09:56 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdheck View Post
I use migs for sheetmetal a lot, but I haven't had good luck in this type of situation. I have to remove a lot of bolts from 1/4" - 1/2" that are broken off well below the surface of a cast iron part and the wire can touch a thread above the bolt where a stick won't arc as easily. In this case a mig will probably work ok.
I get broken bolts out all the time with a MIG. Never have an issue, or bad luck.

Guess I'm just arguing here for no real reason. Point I'm trying to make is, if you know how to use a MIG, you will seldom pick up an arc welder. Both welders have their place. Just like all tools. I'll bow out. I really wasn't trying to debate.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-30-2014, 10:23 PM
gdheck's Avatar
gdheck gdheck is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Osage City, KS
Posts: 423
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Guess I'm just arguing here for no real reason. Point I'm trying to make is, if you know how to use a MIG, you will seldom pick up an arc welder. Both welders have their place. Just like all tools. I'll bow out. I really wasn't trying to debate.
Me neither. Sorry, I guess it did look like it I was though. I was just trying to point out my past experience.
__________________
2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-30-2014, 10:36 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdheck View Post
Me neither. Sorry, I guess it did look like it I was though. I was just trying to point out my past experience.
We don't have a "like" button, so I guess we'll go with a
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-01-2014, 08:41 AM
Sam Mac's Avatar
Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Galax VA
Posts: 18,746
Default

I'm going to toss this out as a possibility, I say possibility because I have not done what I'm suggesting so here goes. Remove the rubber grip, take a pipe cutter and cut the tube just below the broken part so that you can get at it, remove the broken part then weld the tube back together, grind the weld smooth so the rubber grip will fit back over the weld.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck
1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower
JD317 dump truck
BX2670 with FEL
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-01-2014, 09:05 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Medora, IL
Posts: 3,866
Default

Personally, I really hate not being able to repair something that is broken, however in this situation you may be better off finding a good used lift handle/rock shaft assembly.

I am also not sure that the broken button you have is not some type of pot metal that you may not be able to weld on.

Not sure how much room you have, but it may also be possible to drill straight down through the sides of the remaining part of the button 180 degrees from each other (with a small drill bit), then brace the bottom of the rod and break the button with a small chisel or tapered punch. It may be impossible to do without damaging the threads on the rod though.

OR, you may be able to use a small rotary file to "grind" a couple of notches in the top part of the remaining button (180 degrees from each other) that you can get the jaws of your needle nose vice grips into allowing you a better grip.

In any event it will most likely be a tedious operation.

Good luck.
__________________
More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-01-2014, 11:15 AM
DoubleO7's Avatar
DoubleO7 DoubleO7 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Crystal River, FL
Posts: 1,476
Default

check out this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1980

The #5 rod is threaded into the #9 button that broke on yours.

What if you could wedge a very small flat blade screw driver in between #9 button and the #4 tube.
Good enough that you could maybe turn the #5 rod out of the button?

Might take a lot of luck.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.