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#1
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Removing Broken Pin from Implement Lift
On my 125, I have a broken pin for the release rod (push button for implement lift) and I wonder how I can get it off?
Lift Pin in Handle.jpg Below is a picture of the spare release pin I plan to replace the broken one. The red arrow points where the old pin has broken off. The part of the push pin to the left is still threaded to the release rod inside the lift handle. Implement Lift Pin.jpg What I have done so far was to remove the ratchet from the implement lift assembly in hopes that I may be able to push up the lift rod enough to grip the broken pin and unthread it from the release rod. It pushes up just barely enough to just about reach the top of the handle tube. I can grip it with long nose vise grip but not a regular vise grip or pliers. The long nose pliers (vise-grip) is too springy and doesn't hold so good when I try to unthread the broken pin. Very close but no dice! Has anybody any ideas or suggestions? Hopefully, someone here has been down this road before! Thanks for looking and any help is much appreciated!
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#2
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In situations like this I have had good luck building up the end of a bolt with weld (NOT mig) until I can grab it with regular vise-grips. I say not mig because it doesn't burn hot enough at the very start to get a good weld and will break off right at the start of the weld most of the time. I usually use a torch, but I have had good luck with a stick welder too. Just add to the stem until it sticks up a 1/2" or so above the tube. Be sure to pull the rubber grip off before you start or you may melt it.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck |
#3
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You must not have used a MIG much. It will work fine.
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#4
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I use migs for sheetmetal a lot, but I haven't had good luck in this type of situation. I have to remove a lot of bolts from 1/4" - 1/2" that are broken off well below the surface of a cast iron part and the wire can touch a thread above the bolt where a stick won't arc as easily. In this case a mig will probably work ok.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck |
#5
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Quote:
Guess I'm just arguing here for no real reason. Point I'm trying to make is, if you know how to use a MIG, you will seldom pick up an arc welder. Both welders have their place. Just like all tools. I'll bow out. I really wasn't trying to debate. |
#6
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Me neither. Sorry, I guess it did look like it I was though. I was just trying to point out my past experience.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, 3 - 42" front blades, 3 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck |
#7
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We don't have a "like" button, so I guess we'll go with a
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#8
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I'm going to toss this out as a possibility, I say possibility because I have not done what I'm suggesting so here goes. Remove the rubber grip, take a pipe cutter and cut the tube just below the broken part so that you can get at it, remove the broken part then weld the tube back together, grind the weld smooth so the rubber grip will fit back over the weld.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#9
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Personally, I really hate not being able to repair something that is broken, however in this situation you may be better off finding a good used lift handle/rock shaft assembly.
I am also not sure that the broken button you have is not some type of pot metal that you may not be able to weld on. Not sure how much room you have, but it may also be possible to drill straight down through the sides of the remaining part of the button 180 degrees from each other (with a small drill bit), then brace the bottom of the rod and break the button with a small chisel or tapered punch. It may be impossible to do without damaging the threads on the rod though. OR, you may be able to use a small rotary file to "grind" a couple of notches in the top part of the remaining button (180 degrees from each other) that you can get the jaws of your needle nose vice grips into allowing you a better grip. In any event it will most likely be a tedious operation. Good luck.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
#10
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check out this thread:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=1980 The #5 rod is threaded into the #9 button that broke on yours. What if you could wedge a very small flat blade screw driver in between #9 button and the #4 tube. Good enough that you could maybe turn the #5 rod out of the button? Might take a lot of luck. |
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