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  #1  
Old 09-12-2017, 08:38 PM
Dirtybug Dirtybug is offline
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Default Welding the drive hub?

I've got a 105 with a worn drive hub that snaps pins. I'll hopefully be removing the rear to weld up the trunnions this winter and I'm wondering if anyone has welded the drive hub (once removed from engine) so it's back to factory without the track worn by the pin?
Other better / easier options?
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:44 PM
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Contact Jeff, he makes new ones.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:40 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtybug View Post
I've got a 105 with a worn drive hub that snaps pins. I'll hopefully be removing the rear to weld up the trunnions this winter and I'm wondering if anyone has welded the drive hub (once removed from engine) so it's back to factory without the track worn by the pin?
Other better / easier options?
Not a good idea. The drive hub allows for the slight misalignment between the engine and the pump ( rear ). By welding the driveshaft to the hub, you will be transferring all the runout to the pump/rear.

Your rear coupler may be worn too. I guess I should put a "drive line package" together consisting of a drive hub, driveshaft and rear coupler at a slight discount over single piece pricing.
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:22 PM
Dart1917 Dart1917 is offline
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I think he's talking about building up the worn area back to the factory slot, not welding the shaft to the hub. If you are good with the welder and can get the worn area filled and the slot cleaned up like original without messing up the bore it should work. If you mess it up you can always get a new one from Jeff.
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:33 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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Originally Posted by Dart1917 View Post
I think he's talking about building up the worn area back to the factory slot, not welding the shaft to the hub. If you are good with the welder and can get the worn area filled and the slot cleaned up like original without messing up the bore it should work. If you mess it up you can always get a new one from Jeff.
Just make sure the pin can slide easily in the slot. Check the rear coupler for an egg shaped hole too. Excessive wobble at the rear coupler will cause problems at the drive hub.
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:01 PM
Dirtybug Dirtybug is offline
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Thanks for all the replies. Once I get everything pulled apart I'll check everything and maybe try welding the hub back to new, it's great knowing I can get a replacement at a good price if mine doesn't work out.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:23 PM
charlie105 charlie105 is offline
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Default 105 drive hub

After installing 2 "weld repaired" drive hubs I decided to order one from Jeff. I ended up replacing the entire drive line; hub, drive shaft, rag joint, and rear coupler. I only intended to get a new front hub, but after describing the symptoms ( loud banging in the drive line ), Jeff suggested I check the entire drive train. DUHHH .......! I found; the coil pin in the rear coupler had worked almost all the way out, and was only stopped by one of the rag joint bolts, the hydro input shaft seal was leaking, the rear coupler was wobbling and the rag joint was tearing ( I think because I..ummm may have over tightened the rag joint bolts 5 years ago. My new problem is how do I drive the rear coupler coil pin through the the hydro input shaft without supporting the shaft, and damaging the shaft bearings. The tractor is not split, and no I don't want to split it! Is there such a thing as a coil pin installation/removal press ? OK that's enough, I really have to ...
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:32 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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A hydraulic or mechanical jack under the rear coupling will support it so you can hit the pin out, but I am not familiar with a narrow frame tractor and if there is access in the tunnel to it??
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:31 PM
charlie105 charlie105 is offline
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Default Weld drive hub

The only access to the coupler pin is from underneath, and that is very limited. I can do it with a brass drift, and a brass hammer, but banging on the unsupported input shaft is unacceptable.
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Old 09-13-2017, 08:34 PM
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It is much easier to split the tractor to gain access to the rear coupler, It would be a good time to clean and do some maintenance to the hydro unit whilest you have it out.
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