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  #11  
Old 09-05-2017, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Did you try using a 2 jaw puller?
The bolts go through the rockshaft oh mighty one!

I would drill out the bolts then just put new nuts and bolts on.
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2017, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Did you try using a 2 jaw puller?
With the bolts still through the shaft how is a puller going to get it?
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2017, 02:23 PM
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Looks like a job for the right angle grinder. Gonna be a PITA job, probably have to grind both sides.
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2017, 03:00 PM
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That's what I was afraid of. But I'll give it a shot. If I booger it up too bad, I have another rock shaft in a frame out back. Thanks all.
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IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2017, 11:26 PM
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Dirty Steve has the right answer. Just hold a nut centered over the broke bolt and stick the wire feed welder tip in and weld it. It might take a few tries but that is by far the best method. The heat will help break the bolt loose.

Many years ago (before I had wire feed welders) a friend and I did this to remove a busted stud on a motorcycle header (1981 Suzuki GS1100EX) and it took three tries. It was on cylinder #3. We were worried about the heat being too much for the flange, but it turned out well. That was a much more delicate job than your lift arm.

You can do it!

Best of Luck,
PeterJ
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2017, 11:30 PM
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One more thing.

Those lift arms are spendy little items. I just spent over a $100 ordering a push/pull one from Xtreme.

PeterJ
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2017, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
The bolts go through the rockshaft oh mighty one!

I would drill out the bolts then just put new nuts and bolts on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
With the bolts still through the shaft how is a puller going to get it?

If you have a big enough puller, and a big enough impact gun, those little bolts will be like toothpicks.



I gots the big tools.... just sayin.
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  #18  
Old 09-07-2017, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
If you have a big enough puller, and a big enough impact gun, those little bolts will be like toothpicks.



I gots the big tools.... just sayin.
And ruin the grease fitting while I’m at it.

None of that was necessary. I took Sam’s suggestion. I had the bolts backed out enough that I didn’t have to grind both sides but alas I got it off with no carnage. The 4” angle grinder with a cutoff wheel cut the arm in half, close to the rock shaft and a grinding wheel took the rest off right down to the shaft and it fell right off.

C9FEABA6-78CA-4495-9532-C729549AA248.jpg

B5689BDA-3A15-41ED-9F5A-9D8BE5DF2AC3.jpg
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #19  
Old 09-07-2017, 09:27 PM
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Good job getting it off. They can be a real bugger.
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  #20  
Old 09-08-2017, 07:03 AM
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Ya done good grass hopper!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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