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  #41  
Old 10-28-2015, 10:32 AM
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MWShaw MWShaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankF3 View Post
The throttle lever does have play in it at the bottom end. The lever is sort of a 2 stage design and has a cam and a second lever behind the dash. As you lower the throttle speed, the speed section bottoms out then the shut-off comes into play for the rest of the travel until it reaches the bottom of the slot. You may be interpreting play at the bottom of the range, where the shut off/down area used to be and is now controlled by the second knob you have with the red button.
That's what I was thinking it was. I'll get into that more, tonight....maybe? If time allows.
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  #42  
Old 10-28-2015, 12:52 PM
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FrankF3 FrankF3 is offline
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They say a picture speaks a 1000 words, so to save a 1000 words, here's a picture of the throttle.

Throttle.jpg

Part # 17 is the throttle lever that sticks through the dash opening. Part # 18 is the cam that controls the throttle speed via the throttle cable. Part # 19 is the cam that controls fuel shut-off via the shut-off cable.
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1989 - Cub Cadet 1772
1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0
38" Lawn Sweeper #196483
42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349
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48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356
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  #43  
Old 10-29-2015, 03:16 PM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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Originally Posted by MWShaw View Post
But we spent some quality time with the power washer, it's a good solid tractor. I like it a lot.



It had been leaking HyTran into the mower deck for a while;
Hears a pair of 1572
the rear end was broke on one of them the other has two broke bolts
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  #44  
Old 10-29-2015, 05:45 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Put a set of the rear end braces on it from Xtreme and forget about it, problem solved. Or pull the rear, replace the front adapter housing and still risk breaking it again. your $$$$$ and your tractor.
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  #45  
Old 10-29-2015, 06:13 PM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Put a set of the rear end braces on it from Xtreme and forget about it, problem solved. Or pull the rear, replace the front adapter housing and still risk breaking it again. your $$$$$ and your tractor.
work on getting A set by spring for both 1572 .
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  #46  
Old 10-29-2015, 07:11 PM
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jaynjeep jaynjeep is offline
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I agree with Sam..

Use the braces and you don't need those front bolts...

I put a set on my 1782 and it feels like a different tractor... stiffens the whole frame tremendously.. you can't feel it twisting anymore and my front mounts weren't even broken!

Nice tractor and nice work!!
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  #47  
Old 10-30-2015, 05:31 AM
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MWShaw MWShaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLM78 View Post
Hears a pair of 1572
the rear end was broke on one of them the other has two broke bolts
That SUCKS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Put a set of the rear end braces on it from Xtreme and forget about it, problem solved. Or pull the rear, replace the front adapter housing and still risk breaking it again. your $$$$$ and your tractor.
Yeah, that is what I plan to do. I just keep thinking I want to also brace the frame rails side to side, right at the area where the front of the diff attaches? A cross brace? If that makes sense?

I may be over thinking it, I usually do.

I have been focusing my time / resources on getting it where it will start without having to jump it of off my truck. New ignition switch / relay / glow plugs and the solenoid upgrade hopefullty will put that issue to bed.

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaynjeep View Post
I agree with Sam..

Use the braces and you don't need those front bolts...

I put a set on my 1782 and it feels like a different tractor... stiffens the whole frame tremendously.. you can't feel it twisting anymore and my front mounts weren't even broken!

Nice tractor and nice work!!
Thanks!

Hopefully I will get a few minutes to work on it this afternoon. I would like to finish up wiring the solenoid upgrade for the glow plugs.

My 782 has the cat 0 3 pt rear, I plan to switch that to the smoker. Then put the tins pan back on.

Resisting the urge to order some paint and repaint all the tins.

It's a nice tractor, be cool to have it all repainted and shiny!
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  #48  
Old 10-31-2015, 06:14 AM
bugeye bugeye is offline
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The tins will be fine without the paint. But, I sent my Kohler tins to JetHot many years ago. They still look great and no corrosion. Kinda expensive for the JetHot coating, but a nice product.
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  #49  
Old 10-31-2015, 09:24 AM
JLM78 JLM78 is offline
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You get your 1772 up and going your enjoy it
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  #50  
Old 10-31-2015, 09:45 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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On your rear end braces:
Stop trying to "overthink" them. This is the first one you've owned. Trust that Sam Mac, a guy who has owned and rebuilt SGT's for years has taken all the "thinking" out of it for you. You need not try to redesign, or come up with a less $$ idea. The braces are simple, and effective. You need only to buy and install them.


On the rear cat 0: The GT and SGT hitches are different. You will have to make changes for it to work.
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