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#11
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i've heard of people putting wood screws in a gas tank and shaking it like crazy. don't know how well it works because i've never had to try it. so good luck
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#12
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Insert a length of chain. Tumble. Use a magnet or a wire hook to remove the chain. Its easier than trying to remove a bunch of screws or whatever. If it wasn't bad rinse it with diesel and use. If it was really bad, use a product called Red Kote. The prep is critical but it works great. I've used a gallon or more on a large 72 Cutlass fuel tank to seal a rusted seam. Its still sealed 12 years later. I've used less than a cup to seal a rusty pitted kerosene lantern tank. Still sealed 4 years later. I'm going to buy more to do the tank on my recently aquired 100.
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#13
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What I've done in the past with my vintage motorcycles is take 1 part molasses and mix with 5 parts water and add to a steel fuel tank (it will dissolve aluminum). The rusted part must be fully submerged. Let it sit for 2-3 weeks, drain and it comes out like new. This works great with anything steel that you don't want damaged from sand blasting. Best thing is it can be reused a couple times and when done dumped out without having to dispose of chemicals. I don't know how it works but I've used this method many times with great results.
Travis |
#14
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Here is a link describing the molasses method.
http://www.thechopperunderground.com...howtopic=31444 |
#15
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I had the radiator shop boil out my tank and then they installed the coating to the inside of the tank. They even came and picked it up for me. 3 years later, still working great. It didnt cost me a dime thanks to connections which make the world go round. I have also tried the chain in the tank method which seemed to work ok, but make sure you have a time and some good stamina.
Just my 2 cents
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David in NC Wanted to buy Category 0 attachments and 2000 rpm implements ![]() |
#16
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I have used Kreem on vintage Triumph,BSA, Norton cycles that i used to rebuild with great sucess, but now i just use CLR (cheaper & one step) to eat away the rust and gunk. Matt had very good pointers as to finish off with diesel to coat the walls. i have used screws and bbs' to breakup the real nasty tanks before i CLR them and wash out thoroughly with water then let dry before i diesel them. CLR seems to get rid of the rust as well as muratic acid.good luck to all!
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Original Cub Cadet/creeper/fluid filled ags/3 rib fronts(Third one I've owned) Ih rear blade and rake MF 10/3pt/all the toys(sorry but i like it) MF 12 under construction(sorry but i like it) IH 560 tractor '47 Ford 8N Tractor '85 Ford F 250 7.3 IH idi diesel '99 Chetech Pug 4X4 Jari Monarch sickle mower |
#17
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A friend's son use's this stuff that is an epoxy liner on M/C tanks. Pour it in & slosh it around with ballbearings. Does a good job & puts on a rock hard interior coating in the tank. His Father restored a Simplicity tractor that not only had rust but a few pinole's in the tank.Coated it with the stuff & also did a great job. Beats trying to buy a new tank $$$$$.
Can't think of the name but someone will read this & know? Maybe it's that Kreem stuff? ![]() Nik, |
#18
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A bit busy now & got a new grandson (yesterday) so thats taking up time, or rather screwing up things that I had plans to do. Give me a day or 2 & i'll start up a new post with pics & how it worked for me, Nik |
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