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  #31  
Old 12-08-2017, 06:53 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Originally Posted by CUBRAT View Post
....... also took the ball out of the tranny input flange and mounted the drive shaft solid as well.....
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..... and will solid mount the rear coupler using 3/8" nuts.....
I think it’s worth considering the importance of maintaining a certain level of alignment along the center line of the crankshaft, the driveshaft and the transmission input shaft. I’m guessing that the International engineers that designed these machines sought to absorb any mis alignment and therefor reduce vibration with the ball bushings and the rag joint. You might want to re consider solid mounting the rear of the driveshaft.
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  #32  
Old 12-08-2017, 08:32 PM
CUBRAT CUBRAT is offline
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I think it’s worth considering the importance of maintaining a certain level of alignment along the center line of the crankshaft, the driveshaft and the transmission input shaft. I’m guessing that the International engineers that designed these machines sought to absorb any mis alignment and therefor reduce vibration with the ball bushings and the rag joint. You might want to re consider solid mounting the rear of the driveshaft.
Here is the instruction I recieved on solid mounting the rear coupler:

"Flex Coupler Arms Fastened TogetherWith solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet that originally came with an ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking. The flexible rubber disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead of replacing the OEM coupler arms with a machined rigid tubular coupler, make the coupler arms rigid by removing the flexible rubber disc(s) and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple of 3/4" thickness spacers for double discs, and then fasten the arms together with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Large nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is 3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler, and it cost a lot less."

Anyone have any other opinions on this? Im all ears
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  #33  
Old 12-08-2017, 08:53 PM
mortten mortten is offline
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Brian Miller I'd kind of banned around here.
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  #34  
Old 12-08-2017, 09:05 PM
CUBRAT CUBRAT is offline
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Brian Miller I'd kind of banned around here.
I understand why now. His name, nor link is mentioned.

Not trying to cause problems, just seeking advice

I would like opinions on mounting the rear flange from experienced person's.
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  #35  
Old 12-08-2017, 10:00 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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No harm in keeping the flex disc connection, regardless of how the motor is mounted. Having a flex disc in the drive line provides some forgiveness in alignment and should reduce vibration and stress on bearings, etc.
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  #36  
Old 12-09-2017, 09:02 AM
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ironman ironman is online now
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I am assuming you are still using the original rear coupler that goes on the transmission input shaft, correct? So if that is the case, then it has the centering bearing. So as long as that centering bearing is not shot or worn out, it should center your driveshaft with the center of your transmission input shaft regardless of whether there is a ball in there or not.

With that being said, I personally would NOT replace the rubber flex coupler with metal spacers because there is no way on God's Green Earth that you can tell if there is a direct straight line all the way through the crankshaft and through the transmission input shaft. Making it solid is an invitation for disaster unless it was originally engineered that way such as the older Cubs.

However if it were me, I WOULD use TWO rubber flex couplers instead of one. Just make sure the end of your driveshaft is getting into the the centering bearing in the rear coupler. Just my
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