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  #51  
Old 10-11-2017, 02:45 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Those bearings in the new wheels, they came in the wheels when you bought them??
Or, did you buy them and install them?

I have bought wheels before w/bearings already installed. Problem is, they are/were the cheap $5 china crap that were not even packed. Out they come and into the scrap bucket right away and are replaced w/quality HD pieces.

Your cap screw should not be backing out. Sounds like the bearings should be shimmed somewhat under the washer to gain a little free play when spun. The service manual talks of this I believe.
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  #52  
Old 10-12-2017, 12:46 AM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Those bearings in the new wheels, they came in the wheels when you bought them??
Or, did you buy them and install them?

I have bought wheels before w/bearings already installed. Problem is, they are/were the cheap $5 china crap that were not even packed. Out they come and into the scrap bucket right away and are replaced w/quality HD pieces.

Your cap screw should not be backing out. Sounds like the bearings should be shimmed somewhat under the washer to gain a little free play when spun. The service manual talks of this I believe.
Now that could make a lot of sense! Nope, no made in chins crap here. The four bearings are made in Worchester, MASS., U.S.A by Luico?...., the rims are new from Cub Cadet. The 1" spindles are like new as far as wear. Tires are newer too. The replacement is the same.

Gonna check into this! Thanks!!!
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  #53  
Old 10-12-2017, 09:36 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Pick up some thin machine bushings or washers big enough to contact the outer race of the bearings. Our farm store has them in 2 thicknesses.
Take a bearing w/you to get the proper ID
You have the good bearings for sure.

Your washer under the cap screw is pressing on the inner part of the bearing, forcing it inward enough to bind the ball bearings against the inner lip of the outer race, preventing it from "floating' on the axle shaft and riding "inside the bearing assembly, surrounded by grease. (They have to be packed)
I hope I have described this so it can be understood!!

You should have a tiny bit of "in and out" play when the cap screw is torqued down and the wheel should spin freely.
Good Luck!
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  #54  
Old 10-15-2017, 08:30 PM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Pick up some thin machine bushings or washers big enough to contact the outer race of the bearings. Our farm store has them in 2 thicknesses.
Take a bearing w/you to get the proper ID
You have the good bearings for sure.

Your washer under the cap screw is pressing on the inner part of the bearing, forcing it inward enough to bind the ball bearings against the inner lip of the outer race, preventing it from "floating' on the axle shaft and riding "inside the bearing assembly, surrounded by grease. (They have to be packed)
I hope I have described this so it can be understood!!

You should have a tiny bit of "in and out" play when the cap screw is torqued down and the wheel should spin freely.
Good Luck!
Hey, I was thinking. Why not a 1" O.D x 3/8" I.D washer of a certain thickness work? That would keep the "hub washer" away, would it not? But first I'll check into your outer race shim placement. Could not but notice how much better of a bearing set up my friends Simplicity 7112 has. These are real automotive inner and outer cylinder bearings. But I still love my 1450!

On another note: Got the Firestone 23's mounted today. Easy enough to muscle around on by hand, and a longer screwdriver with a smear of petroleum jelly on the bead side of the rims. Then I washed the wheels with hot water and soap. They will be ready to tape off and paint when dry

Got the brake caliper hardware cleaned, and decided to go keep with the old pads as there is still some pad thickness left to get me out of not taking on the replacement, yet. Also, since the "adventure" has been found and corrected, I'm rather relieved not to have to go into a good pump that don't leak hy-tran! The next couple steps will involve cleaning and painting the charge pump, and touching up the 1450 frame where an old battery once leaked.

We're going on!
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  #55  
Old 10-16-2017, 09:20 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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The outer race needs to be tight in the hub.
I'm sure we have all seen hubs where the outer race has become loose and wallered out the hubs.
But I suppose your idea would also work.
There needs to be a little bit of play in there, one way or another.
Not like the older car wheel bearings where you can back off the adjustment nut to gain the proper free play.
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  #56  
Old 10-28-2017, 11:30 PM
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Got a little done to the 1450 today. Decided against painting the hydro pump, so I cleaned it up pretty good and put it on anyway. Found out by leaving the lower "Z" transmission to frame brackets slightly loose on the transmission, that it allows for adjustment movement to be made during recoupling of the garden tractor. What I done was set the transaxle "level" by placing a piece of 2"x3" board under the charge pump drive shaft coupling. Since my front axle is still nice and snug, I did not need blocks under the front of the frame between the top of the front axle to prevent tractor pivot. I simply lifted the tractor frame, and rolled it back on it's two front wheels right into the trans axle! This was much easier than the adjustable wrench method on the fixed draw bar described in the BRSM. Got all six mounting bolts started and tightened down. Then I tightened down the bolts on the "Z" bracket on the transmission.

Well, the new rear tires sit lower than the turf previously on the tractor. The new tires seem a touch wider, but looks good. Got the correct 1450 identification serial number tag installed too. Guess tomorrow I'll get the rear lift assembly ready for paint and planning on adding some grease fittings to the lift as well.
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  #57  
Old 10-29-2017, 07:53 PM
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So, here is a look back at the 1450 transmission as I separated the tractor:



Now, after the clean up, paint and new tires!

[/IMG]

Today I finally went to TSC and got a cobalt 7/32" drill bit, a pack of 1/4"-28 NF straight grease fittings and will be going through the rear lift and painting that.
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  #58  
Old 10-29-2017, 10:21 PM
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Looks good, and tires look awesome...
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Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439
(O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs
Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk
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  #59  
Old 11-02-2017, 12:03 PM
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Default Tapping For Grease Fittings

So today I got the grease fittings installed to the rear lift. Was easily done with the following tools shown below:

[/IMG]

I chose to start out with a sharp .107" diameter bit to make a pilot hole. Using old motor oil to lubricate the bit and not to burn it up:

[/IMG]

I then chucked the new cobalt 7/32" fractional and drilled the final hole. A # 3 bit could not be found after looking in three different stores.

Here is my 1/4" National Fine # 28 tap in action.

[/IMG]

Here you can see the end result. I was not 100% sure I had the correct tap, or maybe the #3 bit would have made for a tighter tolerance, but the fittings actually threaded and tightened down quite well.

[/IMG]

I prefer to add a dab of anti seize to everything.

[/IMG]

Two new fittings in my rear lift. All done and now will prep for paint

[/IMG]
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  #60  
Old 11-02-2017, 04:21 PM
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What did you use the glass cutter for?
Looks like you anti siezed your finga, "hidy ho"
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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