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Old 01-19-2018, 09:51 AM
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ironman ironman is online now
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Location: Pennsylvania
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I do electrolysis with washing soda in a 50 gallon plastic drum for my bigger parts and I soak smaller parts and nuts/bolts in white vinegar. Both ways work great but both take time, I'm talking like at least 2/3 days or more. The longer you can let it cook the better things will come out. In both ways, the parts come out with a black residue which washes off easily with water and a fine wire brush or a stiff bristled brush. Once rinsed, they will be clean and bright, I then spray the parts with Kleen Strip Etch & Prep (phosphoric acid) which you can buy in the HD/Lowes paint depts. Rinse the parts before the acid dries and dry the parts thoroughly so they don't rust before you can paint them. This process will remove some paint but will not strip good paint to bare metal so if that is your goal you will still have more work to do. The better you can get the part looking before soaking the better the electrolysis or vinegar will do, in other words a going over with a wire brush to remove scaley rust and paint.

ABOVE ALL, NO GREASE! I have found grease or oil on the parts tends to stop all the action. It ruins the vinegar, and deters the electrolysis process. So use a de-greaser of some type on greasy parts and rinse it off good before soaking.

You don't have to worry about ruining anything. Both processes seem to only work on the rust, good steel surfaces are not affected. So unless you have a paper thin part only held together by rust you don't have to worry. Of course a steel surface pock marked by rust will remain pock marked.

I have a sandblaster and cabinet, it has it's place for it's situations but I prefer electrolysis or vinegar for 90% of my rust removal. Much easier (and cleaner) to set parts in there and walk away for a few days (as long as you have the time). Hope all this helps.
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