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Old 07-20-2014, 04:46 PM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sterling, IL
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Default How to: Replace PTO side crank seal on a Kohler Command

Part 1: Removing the PTO and old seal

Seal needed for PTO end replacement: Kohler/Cub part #25 032 06-S

Disclaimer: This tutorial was done on a CH18 but the procedure should be the same for any Command. Also, I am not responsible for any damage you do to your motor. This guide is meant to be a step by step on how to do this for those that have not before, so please; if you have questions, ask. If something doesn't seem right, ask. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself, don't! That being said, let's get started.

To start with, this project can be done with the engine in the tractor. I, however, am doing it on the bench as it was not only out anyway, but easier to take pictures for. If you are doing it in the tractor, you will also need to remove the hood and grill as it makes it much, much easier. To start with, we will need to remove the upper exhaust tin. There are 8 bolts holding this on, 4 on each side. Picture 1 shows the bolts on one side circled in red. Remove the bolts, and then remove the upper tin.



Next, we need to remove the 2 bolts and 2 nuts (circled in red) that hold the PTO on as well as the lower muffler tin. The lower muffler tin will also need to be removed for this project as they also hold the PTO onto the engine. Also, remove the center bolt holding the PTO to the crankshaft. This is best done with an impact wrench. After these 5 bolts are removed, remove the lower muffler tin (it should just pull off, nothing else is holding it on at this point). Then we will remove the muffler. There are a total of 4 nuts holding this on. Remove the 4 nuts, and pull the muffler off.



Next, remove the final 2 bolts holding the PTO on the tractor. Once these are removed, the PTO is the next to come off. A pulley puller would be easier, however if you don't have one on hand, a crowbar or long, solid screwdriver and hammer will do the trick. Just take it slow; you don't want to damage the block or PTO so take your time! Apply leverage on the top, then bottom, then top, then bottom, etc., etc. After some patience, it will come off.



You will then be left with the seal exposed. Take note of how far on the shaft the seal is, as when we install the new one, we don't want it to be the same depth as the old (riding in the same "seat" as the old seal will only allow it to leak again).

From here, we need to remove the seal. I find it easier to drill two small holes on either side of the seal. Be CAREFUL with this. You don't need to go all the way through, not only could you go to far and damage the block but the less shavings you make, the better. Then screw two screws (I just grabbed 2 random screws from my parts bin to use) into the holes you've drilled just enough to bite. Then gently pull on both screws to remove the old seal. It should slide right out.









Once removed, take note of the condition of your shaft. Look for any worn groves from the old seal and make a mental note of where they are. When we install the new seal, again, we don't want to install it at the same depth as the old one. If you do, you will be riding in the same grove worn by the old one, thereby not fixing the leak we are here to fix. Remove any shavings that may be left behind, which should be minimal to none, and get your new seal ready.

Part 2 of this will come later this week. I mistakenly ordered the wrong seal.

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-Ryan