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-   -   My Cub 126 and 127 (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50617)

MattC 11-21-2017 08:30 PM

My Cub 126 and 127
 
Hello all,

I've been asking questions regarding my two tractors, so I figured I should just make a thread. Better to make one place for all my questions. :HeadScratch:

Quick backstory:

I purchased my 126 to mow my lawn, plow my driveway, and use for tractor parades and local pulling. We have a few events every year. Nothing too serious. My 126 is running great, and I decided I wanted to add headlights. I found a 127, with headlights, for $225 - which was only $100 more than headlights/tail lights/switch would cost me. So, I purchased it. I have it up and running nicely. The 127 also came with a 48" deck and a really nice homemade weight box.

My plan is to make the best tractor out of the two, and then pass the 127 along.

I'm completely new to cub tractors, but have a general understanding of how they work.

Hopefully you stuck through my story. If you did, maybe you can help me with my current problem. I am trying to remove the headlight switch from the 127, so that I can transfer it to my 126. I loosened the nut that is on the outside of the tractor, but the two halves of the switch will not separate. How does one remove this switch? I don't want to pull to aggressively and end up breaking it. These switches aren't cheap to replace.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm going to take a bunch of photos, and start loading them up. The 126 will be setup to do work, not for show, but I think its really starting to look great!

Again thanks for the help this community has bestowed upon me already. I hope I can pay it forward and help the next poor clueless soul that wanders in. :beerchug:

sir_lancealot 11-21-2017 09:28 PM

Pull the switch out, like you’re turning it on. There’s a small hole in the shaft. Stick something in there to keep it from spinning, and unscrew the knob off the end.

J-Mech 11-21-2017 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438714)
These switches aren't cheap to replace.

How do you figure? $5 is expensive? Nothing proprietary here. Just a push pull switch. Like $5 at any parts store. $15 if you go to NAPA, lol. I wouldn't even bother taking a used switch off to use. I'd just get a new one.

Rescue11 11-21-2017 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438723)
How do you figure? $500 is expensive? Nothing proprietary here. Just a push pull switch. Like $1,500 at any parts store. $00.15 if you go to NAPA, lol. I wouldn't even bother taking a used switch off to use. I'd just get a new to you one.:BangPC:

X2, just money... Can't take it with you.

Regards,

Trent

finsruskw 11-22-2017 09:22 AM

I'd keep 'em both and restore/repair as needed.
Would make for a nice pair at a show for folks to compare.
Both from the same series, #5, and the last of the NF's.
One hydro, 25,485 built, and the other gear drive, 5,247 built.

MattC 11-22-2017 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438723)
How do you figure? $5 is expensive? Nothing proprietary here. Just a push pull switch. Like $5 at any parts store. $15 if you go to NAPA, lol. I wouldn't even bother taking a used switch off to use. I'd just get a new one.

I want to use the factory switch. My understanding is that they don't make them anymore.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-1...ss!06412!US!-1

They seem to go for $30+, and most aren't in good shape.

MattC 11-22-2017 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sir_lancealot (Post 438722)
Pull the switch out, like you’re turning it on. There’s a small hole in the shaft. Stick something in there to keep it from spinning, and unscrew the knob off the end.

Thanks! I'll try that tonight.

Lanceskene 11-22-2017 11:29 AM

$30+ for an antique electrical switch that looks like it will most likely short out and burn your tractor to the ground??????? WTF

Just but a cheap NEW switch.... OEM is worthless on a toasted tractor.

J-Mech 11-22-2017 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438750)
I want to use the factory switch. My understanding is that they don't make them anymore.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-1...ss!06412!US!-1

They seem to go for $30+, and most aren't in good shape.

New ones are just like the OEM switch. Can't tell any difference on the outside. Sure, the back may look different.... but it works the same. I really do not understand why people get so excited about freakin light switches. (You aren't the only one who seems to think they are something special.) Makes about as much sense to me as wanting an OEM tire inner tube, or wiring harness.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Lanceskene (Post 438759)
$30+ for an antique electrical switch that looks like it will most likely short out and burn your tractor to the ground??????? WTF

Just but a cheap NEW switch.... OEM is worthless on a toasted tractor.

:beerchug::beerchug:

ironman 11-22-2017 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438760)
New ones are just like the OEM switch. Can't tell any difference on the outside. Sure, the back may look different.... but it works the same. I really do not understand why people get so excited about freakin light switches. (You aren't the only one who seems to think they are something special.) Makes about as much sense to me as wanting an OEM tire inner tube, or wiring harness.




:beerchug::beerchug:

I met a guy that is still looking for the the OEM air that came in his tires.:ROTF1::ROTF2::ROTF2:


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