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-   -   KT17 rods (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=49194)

jleus 06-29-2017 05:43 PM

KT17 rods
 
So I'm going to put a KT17 series 1 back together, not getting hurt to bad on needed parts. I am putting two new rods in and have read of a hole drilled in the big end of the rod to facilitate oiling. The rods I have bought are without any extra hole. Any insights or thoughts on best insuring the rod gets oiled?? I have read the many posts about not bothering with this motor, run don't walk away............but I'm committed, parts are here and it's going back together. I understand about the operation on slopes, frequent oil changes and all. Just really looking for some thoughts on the rods. Thanks

ol'George 06-29-2017 06:57 PM

The series 2 and magnums are good motors in my book, but the series 1 has only #5 of oil pressure and only splash lube to the rod journals.
it is and was, not enough, it's a poor design.
Although some still survived if oil was changed frequently and care was taken during cold start up, not to rev it till oil was warm.
Usually when the gave up, they destroyed the block.
The series 2 and magnums had thicker webbing in the block, cross drilled crank, for oiling to the rods, larger taper on the crank for flywheel ,#50 oil pressure. and other improvements in valves, and addition of oilfilters.
I can't remember but there was a small hole drilled in the rod cap by some people to increase oiling on the series 1, but it still wasn't enough and they blew up, it almost put kohler into bankruptcy, back in the day.
the additional oil hole modification was not centered in the cap, but that is all I can remember, seems it favored the leading direction to catch oil.
Some people take the time to get a series 2 or magnum and rebuild it, but not a series 1.
You dump money into a series 1, and most parts are NLA and when you get done if you can find the parts, you have a poor design that is fragile.
Do a search on google or back in our archives and maybe you will stumble on the rod modification if you are dead set on wasting time and money.
Sorry, but it is what it is.
FWIW I have 4 magnums and they do what I want, so I am not unfavorable to opposed twins.
One of those engines I built from parts from ebay and another I converted from a vertical engine to horizontal.

ccpullin 07-01-2017 11:26 PM

You do not have the proper rods. The rods on a series I are not pressure fed through the crankshaft! The rods on a series 1 are lubed by oil slung from holes in the cam on to the rods, and entering the drilled holes on the rods. Make sure to install rods so holes face cam. Series I is a low oil pressure engine with oil feeding one main, and through the cam to the other main. Series II is fully pressurized oil system (including rods) with improved sump, and Magnum's are fully pressurized with oil filter capabilities and better pistons/rods/mags.

jleus 07-02-2017 07:02 PM

Well I'm dead set, it had over 800 hours on the clock and didn't look like it was getting much care, I'll still be at about $500 on a 782, that cuts good, that's the whole thing, entire machine..............call me crazy I guess. The rods that were in it did not have any holes for oiling and it doesn't look like it's been opened before.

Anybody with any more detail on the oil holes in the rods?? Thanks.

ccpullin 07-03-2017 09:37 PM

Are you sure it is a Series I, or a Series II short block with Series I tin? Do the rods have bolts or nuts and does the crank have oil passages on the rod journals?

jleus 07-04-2017 10:27 PM

Series 1 crankshaft. The rods that were in it had bolts.

2009Dodge 07-05-2017 04:39 PM

There are alot of good guys on this page!! George is the reason my series one is still running. :beerchug:

My rods don't have any holes in them. I cannot confirm if they are original though. It was put together with series 1 and 2 parts when I got it. (Series 2 block and series 1 crank and rods). It's has a series 1 block now.

I wouldn't put any more money than what's needed to make it run. On that note mines been working pretty hard since it's been back together. Took care of snow all winter(the most snow we've had in recent years!) and now lawn duty. I run 20-50 oil with extra zinc all year (garage is heated in winter and I make sure the oil is hot before doing work). due to my dads recomondation and has been working for me I guess. Just buying time to get a replacement at some point. :beerchug:

jleus 07-05-2017 08:57 PM

Your adding zinc or using a desiel oil with higher zinc? I did add a hole to the rods, hopefully will allow for better oiling at the journal.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

2009Dodge 07-05-2017 09:58 PM

Diesel 15-40 doesn't have much zinc anymore due to emissions. Last change I used valvoline 20-50 high zinc. Says on the bottle in big letters at least. Otherwise amsoil z-rod.

Standard 30 is what the engine calls for but my ol man won't put anything less than 20-50 in an air-cooled engine.

2009Dodge 07-05-2017 10:03 PM

Just make sure it's full of oil each and every time you hit that key over anything else and it will be fine!


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