Houston we have a lift off! (K321)
 

I "crack open" a K321.

Turn the crankshaft and the piston standstill, no problem! I just pressurize the engine block (Using the oil filler tube) and Bam! Houston. we have a lift off! Took just a few pounds of air and he lift 2' high! I adjust the cut off switch of that compressor to 150 Lbs. If the ring have frozen a bit I end up with a hole in the garage roof!:biggrin2:

Now I'm not sure if this block word to be saved yet, the dial boring gauge give me some weirdo reading like 3.490/3.486 so I'm wondering what could have caused this kind of distortion, never work on a "Underboring" engine before.

I order a Starrett 3-4" 0.0001 Mic and a Fowler bore gage master setting kit If things goes like they should be, I came back with some pictures and more accurate numbers ASAP.

Sounds like a Kohler potato gun. :biggrin2:

Exactly!:beerchug:

He may finish his life as one too!
I'm waiting for the parts I order from PartsTree (Order 9 days ago and nothing have been ship yet) and the tools I orders from KBC and Atlas (Canada) (7 days ago)Only good news yet came from David Kirk! He send me my order in time (I want to try his crank counterweight solution:-)

Here a picture where you can see the damage caused by the connecting rod.

Here a picture of the low spot I found about 3/4" front the top.

Man that`s over $400 right there ... You`ve got the tools to do the job right :beerchug:
..and a Starrett bore gage ..

You can do that job with a cheap set of snap "T", a $20 caliper and a set of filler gauge! It's just a excuse to purchase better tool nothing more!:beerchug:

I got a huge deal, the mic was $125Can (T436XRL-4) but it's back order They offer me the 4-5" (T436XRL-5) for $138Can, I have no use for that one but since I'm a tool addicted I will take it too! :biggrin2:

The Fowler master kit was only $173Can after all rebate! I think it worth every penny I spend! To bad they send me the crappy plastic case instead of the aluminum one but I don't work with the case so...

I try to get back with more pictures ASAP but I'm freaking busy with other job. :bash2:

Forgot to post the measurements I get using the dial bore gauge set to 3.500 inch and confirmed using a snap "T" with a caliper. Result show 3.501" for the X axis (Flywheel/PTO) and 3.5020" for the Y axis (Valves/Starter). Now if someone can explain to me why a 40 years old NOT sleeved and NOT NOS engine don't show almost any sign of wear I'm listening!

PS: I check the rings gap and they have been set to 0.018", spec sheet says 0.012...Houston we have a problem :bash2:

The rings gaps spec need to be between .010 to .020 not .012 + I don't know where I take this number from...:Unknown:

I just try to found out why this 540hr engine blow a rod like that, I was first thinking he overheat since between the cylinder fin and the muffler the engine was pack with something who looks like concrete/crappy brick, That's the work of what is called "Mud Bees" but they live in the Midwest and Southern US not in my artic neighborhood :HeadScratch:

One look at what's left of the connecting rod and crank journal confirm my second guess...This engine run out of oil! Now it's all apart and the crank is sitting next to the block at the machine shop to get his journal cut so I can order my connecting rod and cut the side of the counterweight and install Dave Kirk side plate.

Few pics of mid time work…

Rebuilt the steering box but put back the old cup and bearing….
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...ring%20box.jpg

Those are the new cup and bearing I order from Parts Tree, CC number match but they don’t fit! (I got 2 set of those crap $104) Purchase 2 X hr meter from EB .
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...illoux/Cup.jpg

Soon I’m finish with the front end of that cub some ding and paint scratches are waiting to be repair next…
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...loux/Dings.jpg

That's all for the moment. :)

Were did you get the HR meter from EB?

Gilles,
To measure the ring gap, put the ring in the cylinder by itself. It has to be in the bore square. I use the piston to push it down just a bit in the bore (piston upside down). Use the ring lands as a guide to make it square. Then, use a feeler gauge to measure the gap in the ring. I like mine pretty tight, so I keep it to the low end of the spec.

You need to do this with the top and center rings, but also with the thin wipers from the oil ring (lower one). You do not have to check the "accordion" looking spring from the oil ring set. So, 4 rings total need checked.

If they are too tight, take the ring out and put it in a vise with the gap just above the jaws. Use a hand file to shave some off the ring. Try to keep it square. It doesn't take much, so go easy.

Hope that makes sense. :beerchug: