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-   -   Gasket Removal (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=46805)

taylorjm 12-01-2016 03:44 PM

Gasket Removal
 
1 Attachment(s)
So I did some searching, and couldn't find any old threads about this. So what are you using to remove gaskets when going through the rear end? The rear axle gaskets and rear plate are really stuck on there. Usually I go very carefully and slowly scraping it off and maybe using some brake cleaner, but I can't find anything that will touch this stuff. I've tried everything I could find in my cabinets. The gasket in the picture is much better, but it's taking hours! And this is the first one of 6 I have to do!

I've seen people use die grinders with different scotch brite pads, or other attachments, but I'm really leary about anything like that. I know it's a definite no no on engine components because you can grind it out of whack in just a few seconds, but being this is a rear end....maybe there's a better way? I haven't tried any spray on gasket removers yet. Tried brake cleaner, carb cleaner, brake fluid, wd40, pb-blaster, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, paint stripper and anything else I could find. Any suggestions?

J-Mech 12-01-2016 04:05 PM

Been a professional mechanic for a long time. I use a die grinder and 3M "rubber" Roloc bristle disc wheels. Yellow is best for aluminum and green for steel or cast. Don't run the grinder any faster than necessary to remove material. Don't press too hard and keep the disc as flat as you can. They will last a long time if you use them right. I can make one wheel last for a complete engine overhaul on a V8 or straight 6 motor.

taylorjm 12-01-2016 05:26 PM

Those are what I was looking at, but I was seeing conflicting reports of whether they ground down too much metal or not. They are the ones with the little "fingers" I think. I watched some videos of them and they really looked like they worked good.

taylorjm 12-01-2016 05:38 PM

Where do you buy them from? I'm not seeing very many options. Plus it looks like you need to buy the arbor attachment too.

J-Mech 12-01-2016 07:02 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Yes, they are the ones with the "fingers".

Attachment 80462

Yes, you have to buy an driver for them.

Yes, they can eat metal, if you use them like a grinder. That's why I said don't push down on them hard, and don't run the tool very fast. If you don't do those two things they are the best tool available. You can also seriously screw up surfaces with a scraper if you use it wrong. The thing I find most favorable is that with a sanding disc, or the scotchbrite style, then you can leave behind abrasive that can damage internal components. With the "rubber" ones, it's just hard rubber/plastic or whatever, so it won't damage anything. The material you are cleaning off is more abrasive.

I bought them from my Snap-On dealer for a long time. Then I asked my parts supplier if they could get them. They could for about $5 a piece cheaper. The little disc's are expensive for what they are. But like I said, when used properly they last forever. I've made one last several months and cleaned hundreds of parts. It's all in how you use them. Expect to pay anywhere from $7-$15 per wheel depending on where you get them. Napa, O'Reilly's and others can get them. They are usually cheaper per wheel if you buy a few at a time.

Oak 12-01-2016 07:08 PM

I use a 3m scotch pad. Like Jon said, not supposed to but I don't get carried with it. I did look at those 3m Roloc ones but we don't use them at work so I can't buy 10 extra when stocking up and charge them to the job.:bigeyes:

J-Mech 12-01-2016 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak (Post 401622)
I use a 3m scotch pad. Like Jon said, not supposed to but I don't get carried with it. I did look at those 3m Roloc ones but we don't use them at work so I can't buy 10 extra when stocking up and charge them to the job.:bigeyes:

Just convince them to switch. They are way better. Cheaper in the long run too because you use far less of them than the scotchbrite ones.

Oak 12-01-2016 08:03 PM

Will do Jon. I read about those before and heard good things.

john hall 12-01-2016 08:53 PM

I use a straight razor blade or well sharpened gasket scraper. Been in a machine shop for 26 years so scraping, filing, sanding, lets just say I've done plenty and have a good "feel". Never tried the bristle brushes. I imagine they work well. Believe it or not, there are applications (machining castings) where those things are ran in milling machines to deburr parts. I've never done it, just seen them in catalogs. Some of you guys mentioned Scotch brite/Roloc discs. If you use what we do, you can seriously screw up alum. They do a good job of final shaping welds. They are expensive also. I buy from Klingspor, much cheaper than #3M.

taylorjm 12-01-2016 08:54 PM

I went and got one and it worked pretty good. I could see you going wild with them though, but I guess if the gasket is still on there, you can't be sanding it down too much.


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