Cub cadet 1200 drive shaft problem - help!!
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Anyone happen to have the measurement from the center of the rear flange hole to the end of the drive shaft?
Mine is 1 1/4", it should be shorter. When running, does the driveshaft ride tight to the ball inside the flange? I bought this shaft from Jensales. I decided to mount the engine solid and also took the ball out of the tranny input flange and mounted the drive shaft solid as well. After about 2 minutes of test driving, my feet were almost completely numb. Too much vibration for this guy!! So, Im going back to the antivibe system. I put the ball back in the input shaft flange and was about to reinstall with the flex coupler but the drive shaft is too long. From the drive shaft flange to the flex disc is approximately 3/8" of open space. |
Sorry you're having problems but did you compare Jensales parts to the originals? Something is wrong if running it makes your feet numb so quickly.
Here's my parts thread with I originally posted in October of 2012 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875 I make driveshafts and solid motor mounts for the cub enthusiasts plus a lot more. I've never had a "numbing" complaint with my parts. Jeff |
QuietLine drive lines have wear throughout the line! When updating this set up you must carefully examine every component. I found it is imperative to replace not only the drive shaft but the couplings, spirol pins, bearings and flex discs. Since you are installing new mounts have you performed the cradle mod? Have you examined the mounting surfaces on the oil pan to insure a solid fit? Pay close attention to the clutch release arm and the bracket it is mounted to. I would suggest replacing the three pin driver with an older version. Replace the clutch disc with older version and disregard the flex disc...they usually fatigue and crack. Replace the clutch release bearing too! Do it right..do it once! It gets expensive but repaired properly, it should give you many years of good, trouble free service.
:beerchug: |
Most quietlines I've worked on had 2 flex couplers.
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I put a clutch in my 1000 Feb 2016. See my thread here http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=43135
I sent my drveshaft to Jeff in PA and he made me a new one. He may have kept the measurements of the original shaft I sent. If he did he should be shoe to make you one too. My tractor had one flex coupling. I put it back the way it was from the factory. The serisl number shows it was made in August if 1977. I hope this helps. Bob |
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Im confident in the clutch, but I dont think the shaft is the right length. When I mounted it solid, the vibration was not from the driveline and the clutch was smooth. Clutch operation made no difference in the vibration. If there was no ball in the input flange, it would mount up just fine. It is the length that I explain in the orginal post. Im 100% posititive that the vibration is coming from the solid mounted engine, which I am going away from. The motor runs well. This one is just not meant to be solid mounted. |
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You can determine if the engine is cause of the vibration. Install engine but leave out the drive line. Start the tractor...you will have your answer.
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Im pretty sure my problem will be solved if I could find the accurate measurement I need. I could add another flex coupler to fill the gap, but that would make the clutch side of the shaft too long and will push the drive plate against the 3 pin driver. |
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